Gp100

[model 70]

Went and took my handgun safety test today. Then I handled some revolvers in .357mag. I thought the Ruger GP100 felt way better in my hands than the S&W686. More balanced. Checked out both 4" and 6" models. A couple questions:

what are the advantages of one barrel length over the other?

which is a better made, tougher, more durable handgun, the smith or the ruger?

I'll be using this piece for mostly plinking but I want to carry it as a back up for deer and pig hunting. Maybe I get a deer inside 50yds and I have a go at it with the .357mag and some "stout" rounds. I'll also be sleeping with it within reach for home protection. Perhaps some close called in 'yotes may be on the menu for this revolver too. Another scenario that pops into my head is camping. Yes, camping. You hear stories on the news all the time about bears wandering into camps looking for grub. True, if you keep it put away, you won't have a problem. Still, I'd feel alot better better with a .357 next to me in the tent when I fall asleep each night in the mountains.

What are your thoughts?

[Tater]

I got a 4" GP100 for packing while hunting because it's a little lighter and smaller which means I can carry it all day and it's not a problem. The 6" will give you a little more range but I don't know how much.

[Rocky Raab]

The 4" is a whale of a lot better to wear on a belt. The 6" will (probably) give you a little more velocity, and it'll be easier to shoot accurately due to the longer sight radius.

But if it were my choice, I'd go 4" every time.

Oh, the GP100 is one of the finest revolvers ever made. Hell for tough like all Rugers, easy to smooth up if you need that, and warrantied forever.

[gregarat]

The Ruger is a very tough durable handgun. The Smith is easier to work on (take apart, trigger job, ect).

The 4" barrel is better for carry. Like Rocky, and Tater said. The 6-8" barrel is minimum for hunting. 2" does make a big difference in both range, power, and abit easier to shoot.


It seems the GP-100 with a minimum 6" barrel, will fit your needs.

[wrenchman]

check and make sure your state will let you use a 4" before buying it some states have a minimum barrrel length for hunting.

[model 70]

I just can't decide. Both felt pretty good in my hand. what kind of power loss will i see with the 4" from the 6"?

[TreeDoc]

The GP100 was my first handgun! They are tough guns as I have a zillion rounds through mine of varying strengths and it is still as good as new. For shooting heavy loads the Ruger will outlast the 686 simply by design and construction. Ruger builds a much heftier gun and includes the cylinder crane lock mechanism which has to be installed by a gunsmith on the 686. With this mod, a 686 is pretty tough to beat! As tough as nails as the Ruger is, I personally find the balance, fit, and function much more refined on a 686...especially the older models prior to them using the transfer bar technology and MIM process for trigger parts. Look for a used model 686 that has the firing pin on the hammer, it would cost you some time and money to get a Ruger to feel like that gun!

As far as barrel length? In general terms I have found a difference of about 200fps less velocity on a 4" barrel. If your shooting competitively this will be a pain in the ass as you will have to shoot pretty hot loads to meet power factor requirements. If you don't shoot competitively than you have no worries, the 4" carries much ore nicely. Range and true accuracy will not be affected by barrel length.

[HANDGUNNER]

When I joined the force 15 yrs. ago I was given an option between the S&W model 65 and the Ruger GP100. Both had 4 inch barrels. I chose the Ruger and never, ever regretted it. The GP100 is a super gun. If you lost your hammer you could frame a deck with the GP100. The gun is that tough. We moved on to autos and I regrettable gave up the Ruger. Last year I purchased a 686 w/ a 6 inch barrel for huntin. That was a fine gun. Perfect balance and dead on sights. The thing you've got to ask yourself is, is this a carry or huntin gun. Carry guns should be 3 or 4 inch. Huntin guns start at 5.5-6 inch. If it's a backup and carry gun, with a coyote option - go with the four inch. You won't be sorry. If you are buyin the thing for handgun huntin, start with a six inch, (I now own a 8 3/8 inch .44 for huntin.) Smiths are a little thinner and more stream lined, but I'd buy the ruger just for the durability. Last year a guy up this way in NH was bow huntin deer and had his 686 on the hip. A black bear wandered under his stand and he had a permit anyhow, well the .357mag stopped the bear with one shot to the neck, enough said.

[model 70]

By carry gun do mean one I'll be carrying regularly for personal protection or one I'll be carrying while hunting in addition to my deer rifle?

[buckhunter]

Really doesnt matter which you choose. Rugers are workhorses as are S&W. You shouldn't have a problem with either.

As for barrel length, if it was primarly a hunting weapon go with a 6" barrel. If its for plinking, carry, or occasional hunting I would go with the 4"as may have already stated.

What it boils down to is which feels better to you. Life is full of tough decisions and these are the fun ones.

[HANDGUNNER]

By carry I mean a pancake holster on the hip while huntin or camping. If it's primarily a hunting gun, I prefer longer barrels. If your huntin coyote with it I wouldn't hesitate with a 4 inch barrel. In fact I'd probably just go with winchester white box .38 +P 125 grain. More than enough gun for yotes. I know it's just a two inch difference, but 4 inch is much easier to carry. Too many people buy huge guns and carry em once or twice and then leave them home when they should have them. Oh by the way, this month alone we've pulled out a level 3 sex offender from a camp ground and the US Marshalls nailed a high risk robbery fugitive from another one just up the road, thats just this area alone. Allot of two legged predators out there where you least expect em.

[model 70]

Wow, I never thought of it like that. There have been times when I'm crusing some old logging road out in the middle of nowhere(no cell phone reception up in the mountains either) and come across a couple of guys just "loitering around". No guns, not hunting season, no camp. nothin. The kind that just stare at you as you pass and give you the creeps. Happen upon alot of strangers while out walking while deer hunting too. No law up there and if something awfull really did happen, you're the only one who is gonna save your life. Not many people around to hear you yell HELP out there. Never hunt alone is the best method I suppose.

I hate to profile or stereo-type or whatever but sometimes you just get a gut a feeling. I'd feel alot more secure if I stumbled on someone I was unsure of with a nice, somewhat compact, quick handling .357 on my hip.

[model 70]

Well, I've decided on the 4" model. I'll save the longer barrel wheel gun when I get a REAL hunting pistol. Something in .44rem mag. Until then, the .357mag will be my back-up/carry gun while hunting, next to the bed home protector and all around plinker aswell as the occasional varmint popper. Thanks for all your replies. Oh, and does $469 sound like alot for the stainless GP100 in .357?

[Critch]

I carry a 3-inch stainless GP-100 with the small grips everywhere, woods, car, under my shirt, it's a great gun.

[gregarat]

Oh, and does $469 sound like alot for the stainless GP100 in .357? I payed $500 for mine.

[model 70]

Oh, ok. It struck me as odd that the 4" and 6" costs the exact same everywhere I've looked out here. Was that $500 out the door?

[Hawkeye6]

I have a GP 100 that I bought over ten years ago. Its a SS 4" barrel in .357 magnum with adjustable sights. Very nice little revovler. $469 might not be too bad today, I don't really know. I think I paid something like $350 when I got mine.

[model 70]

well they had the S&W 686 in the 4" for $599 and it was on sale for $469 so I figure that ought to drop the Ruger in the $300-350 range when it goes on sale which is somewhat frequently from what the guy behind the counter said.

[Hawkeye6]

http://www.galleryofguns.com/gunLocator/

This might help you figure out what a reasonable price is for hte gun, and it mihgt help find someone locally with a good price.

Hawkeye

[TreeDoc]

Have you checked Badger John's in Sac?

[model 70]

Yep. 10/22's aside they are most expensive store in town. rifles, shotguns, pistols, ammo, etc. Evrything and anything you can find there can be found at Wild Sports or Great Outdoors(formerly Great Guns) for less $$$. I haven't looked at Cordova Guns or J & G yet.

[model 70]

Bought the gun last friday. They had to order it so I'll be picking it up the 18th of this month. Man, I can't wait!

[wrenchman]

I got my gp100 when the brady bill was in the works it was hard to get any hand gun with out ordering it becouse they were selling them as fast as they came in i paid 336 for a s.s.

[model 70]

Well I found this shop near my home that has a load of used rifles and shotguns aswell as some handguns but can order ANY rifle, shotgun or pistol new you can legally buy here in CA. They're real cheap too. Both those points are what the bigger gun stores in town are lacking.

[model 70]

can the trigger pull be lightened on this gun for quicker DA shooting?

[TreeDoc]

Yes, any competent gunsmith can do the necessary honing and the spring can be changed to reduce trigger pull. You can buy the springs and do it yourself just don't mess with the honing part of it, you'll be buying new trigger parts in no time!

The process shouldn't cost more than $35-$40 bucks plus the cost of the spring.

[model 70]

just picked up the pistol today and put about 120-130 rounds through it. THIS THING IS FRIGGIN' AWSOME!!!. i never knew how much a pistol is. probably because i haven't shot much of them in my life.

as usuall, i have some questions.

shot 125gr. JSP remingtons umc and 158gr. JHP cci blazers. shooting into a layered "hard mass" the cci's held together MUCH better than the remingtons. i would have thought the JSP's would mushroom less than the HP's but i was wrong. how come cci's HP didn't expand the point of near extinction like the SP remingtons?

also shot some 130g.r FMJ winchester "bargain buy" box from wal-mart along with some american eagle FMJ's in .38special and i can say this. the winchesters burn ALOT dirtier than the A.E. ammo. will this gun get as much copper fouling as my ol' .270win rifle?

when looking into the chambers of the cylinder i noticed rings up near where the projectile part of the cartridge would go. is that supposed to be there? i didn't notice it before i shot tonight and i couldn't scrub it out. on the front of the cylinder when the barrel meets cylinder, i also noticed some dark rings. couldn't scrub them off well either. is all that stuff normal?

aside from getting nervous about cleaning from the muzzle end, i love this revolver.

[Critch]

I carry the 3-inch, stainless Gp-100 with the small grips in an El Paso Saddlrey Tom Threepersons holster, it is a great little pistol. I am going to put some Herrett wood grips on it soon. I only paid about $360.00 for mine brand new, but Davidson's had them on sale. I guess the 3-inch isn't as popular.

[model 70]

anyone else? rocky?

[TreeDoc]

All the things you describe are pretty much normal for a revolver. Using a good solvent will generally get the grunge out of the cylinders but beyond that, if you're really picky about the cleanliness of your gun like I tend to be, get yourself a little container of JB Bore Paste. Any gun shop worth it's salt will have it in stock. It is an extremely fine abrasive cleaner and will get the staining off with little effort. If you plan to shoot a lot there is a spray on product that is available from Dillon Precision and I believe it's called "Carter's". You spray it on the front of the cylinder and forcing cone area prior to shooting and it helps in clean up. EZ Brite cleaning cloths will help strip the crud too.

As for copper fouling....given that you aren't shooting at near the velocities of a .270, no, copper fouling won't be as much a factor but if you shoot a whole bunch, it will build up (permitting you are shooting copper jacketed bullets as opposed to lead). Occasionally cleaning the bore with JB Bore cleaner will remedy that issue.

[model 70]

ahhhhhh, thanks. i'm not REAL picky. i was just curious if that stuff is normal. i'll look for the bore paste aswell as the cleaning clothes. thanks a bunch for the info.

[Jack]

One trick you might try to get the cylinders clean is to use an oversize brush- in your case get a 41 caliber or 410 shotgun brush.
The diameter of the chambers inthe cylinder is larger than the diameter in the barrel, so an oversize brush will do a better job of getting the crud loosened up.