I need help with muzzleloader Q

[HANDGUNNER]

My son is turning into a history buff. He wants to deer hunt this year with a classical looking muzzeloader in the worst way. I'm a very experienced shooter, (pistols, rifles, IN-LINE MUZZELOADER,) but I know nothing about flintlocks or any type other than IN-LINE. I don't know anything about the older style guns. I wouldn't know how to ready the thing for firing. I need some guidance here. What should I be looking for, what do I need to go with it. I don't know anything about patches and round balls.

[Mr. 16 gauge]

I would recommend a caplock as a first time "traditional' muzzleloader; quite a few can be found in the used gun racks now that the inline craze has taken over- they are a little more 'forgiving' with re: to misfires. As far as patched round balls vs conicals: a lot depends on the rate of twist; the slower the twist (1:66", for example), the more of a "round ball shooter" the gun is.
As far as patches go, the thickness is determined by bore size and ball size. For example, in a .540 barrel, the patch should be .010 for a .530 ball.
While you can use BP substitutes such as pyrodex, I would recommend that you use loose powder and not the pellets that everyone seems so fond of.
For a hunting rifle, I would recommend a .50 or .54 cal. weapon.

In addition to patches, balls, caps and powder, I would recommend a short starter, measure, wedge pin puller, worm, ball puller, and nipple pick.
I'm sure the other guys that frequent this forum can give you some more advice.......keep up posted and feel free to ask questions!;)

[Gil Martin]

There are a lot of excellent used flintlocks and percussion rifles sitting on used gun racks. I own both percussion and flintlock rifles and prefer flintlocks. If you shop the used gun racks, my recommendation would be to look for Thompson Center brand Renegades or Hawkens or Lyman Trade Rifles or Great Plains Rifles in .50 or .54 caliber. Pay particular attention to the bore and any signs of rust or pitting may indicate improper cleaning by the previous owner(s) and would be a solid reason for rejection.

These rifles use round balls slightly smaller than the bore diameter and a .50 caliber rifle uses a .490" ball and as Mr. 16 gauge says a .54 caliber would require a .530" roundball. Patches come lubed and unlubed and both work well, but I lube dry patches with a bit of Crisco or whatever vegetable shortening is on sale at the local IGA grocery store. Patch thickness can vary from .010" to .015" and again both work well. A bit of experimentation at the range will indicate which works best in your rifle.

Flintlocks work best with real balckpowder and it is getting harder to find places that sell it. Black powder varies in size of granulation. The more "Fs" the smaller the grains of powder. FFFFG is the smallest grains and is used to prime the pan to ensure a rapid ignition. I use FFG as the main charge in both .50 and .54 caliber guns. Others prefer FFFG and both work well.

Ignition in a percussion is controlled by the percussion cap and keeping the touch hole in the nipple clear of debris. Same on a flintlock, the touch hole bushing can be cleared with a safety pin prior to shooting. Reliable ignition in a flintlock is impacted by using a good quality flint and a decent frizzen. Both Lyman and now Thompson Center have pretty decent frizzens. A well-tuned flintlock is very reliable.

Finally, the best way to clean a percussion or flintlock is still to use hot soapy water and patches, hot water and patches, dry patches and oil patches. There are no really good shortcuts to proper cleaning a smokepole. Some of the used muzzleloaders with rust and pitting are testimony that some folks thought otherwise. If you have any more questions, just post them here and these good people will assist you. All the best...
Gil

[HANDGUNNER]

Thanks for the replys. I have Thompson Center Distributer close by. I'll stop in and look around. After reading your replys I'm leaning more toward precussion for ease of use with my son, (he's use to 20 g. shotgun and .22 lr.)

He's really excited about the black powder shooting. He went on a field trip at School and got a suveneir Musket Ball (.69 caliber,) and patch. He loved the musuem exhibits with men with their flintlocks from the civil war, 18th & 19th century hunters and farmers... When I told him I had a black powder gun (IN-LINE w/scope,) he was very quick to point out that it really wasn't a black powder gun, didn't look like a musket, and wasn't very good looking compared to the guns at the Musuem. Man did he get me on that.

I stopped by the local gun shop today and they had a nice looking Traditions Deer hunter .50cal, but I don't know what the quality of Traditions is, (not as well known to me as Thompson or CVA.)

[Adam Helmer]

HANDGUNNER,

Welcome to the Forum. You got pretty good advice from the oldtimers here. I would suggest you buy Lyman's "Black Powder Handbook" for a good read on traditional muzzleloaders and good data on loads, patches, and all the necessary accoutrements for muzzleloading.

Keep us posted on your progress.

Adam

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Adam had made a good point about the reading material....just about anything by Sam Fadala is good with re: to muzzleloading; also, Rick Hacker had a book out a few years ago on muzzleloading that I thought was good also, esp. for a beginner....can't remember the title, and I'm at work now...I'll see if I can find the book later when I'm at home...maybe your local library might have a copy.

[Gil Martin]

This book was written by Rick Hacker and published by Popular Science Books and Sedgewood Press in 1988. It contains a wealth of information on muzzleloaders. All the best...
Gil