Air Compressor Lubricator Question

[fabsroman]

I am getting ready to buy a new compressor for my garage and am thinking about buying a regulator, filter, and lubricator combination accessory from IR.

Does anybody know if the lubrication on these lubricators can be shut off. I only need the lubricator when I am using air tools. I don't need it to pump tires or to blow out the garage floor.

Any help is appreciated.

[grizer]

Hi, fabsroman, I have a large home shop and have used air tools for years. Used oiler earlier, but stopped because of oil in all lines, hard to get it out. Now I give the tool a squirt in intake each time I use it and havn't had a problem, more often with extended use.
Ideal setup would be two separate systems and lines, then you would have oilfree lines for painting or blowing.

[tooldummy]

Grizers right. In my shop I have an oiler next to the workbench where I use the air tools the most and when I quick couple the air hose to the manifold I have set up, it oils all my air tools. If I don't want air, I unhook the main supply hose and then it's straight air. At the shop I work at, the mechanics and I simply pour a little oil into the inlet of the tool we are using. The main thing you need is dry air. But you could always quick couple an oiler into your airline by the tank and then just take it out and put a different hose in if you wanted to paint or something. Alemite makes both good dryers and oilers.

[fabsroman]

Thanks guys. I'm no stranger to air tools or compressors and have been using the same method as the two of you to oil my tools (i.e., a couple of squirts in the air intake of the tool). I was just wondering if it would be better to have an oil, but I guess it would be a pain in the rear. I surely do not want to have two sets of hoses in my garage and I don't want oil in my air hose either. Never thought about the problem that oil in the air hose could cause. I'll get a separate filter/drier and regulator and call it a day.

Thanks guys, I figured somebody on here would be able to help me.

[DogYeller]

I worked for a Marine Contractor and most of our work was at the water line or under water. We had all kinds of air tools even pneumatic chainsaws. All of our equipment was equipped with inline lubricators screwed into the air inlet.
Something like this filled with marvel oil.http://www.jackssmallengines.com/graphics/chairtools/mp2680_big.jpg

[TreeDoc]

Originally posted by DogYeller
I worked for a Marine Contractor and most of our work was at the water line or under water. We had all kinds of air tools even pneumatic chainsaws. All of our equipment was equipped with inline lubricators screwed into the air inlet.
Something like this filled with marvel oil.http://www.jackssmallengines.com/graphics/chairtools/mp2680_big.jpg

Ditto....all the way down to Marvel's Mystery Oil! ;)

I run an inline dryer on my hose too. It looks a lot like the oiler DogYeller pitches but it's a bit longer and is filled with opaque little BB sized pellets. When they turn a dark color it needs to be replaced. Fab's, we had that conversation a long time ago about blowing out your gun parts and this solves that moisture residue issue you were concerned about.

[fabsroman]

I have actually seen the inline oiler before and I think that is the route I am going to have to go on this.


TD,

What does the inline drier look like and can you give me any info on the manufacturer and/or a place to order it from.

I guess this issue isn't going to be as simple as I thought. Then again, they usually aren't.

[gumpokc]

another related tip: if you wanna keep that moisture out of your lines, start at the source.
blow the tank out completely once a week, or more if it's really humid.

customer of ours has a compressor thats been inservice since 1951, with nothing ever replaced except for two sets of bearings, 5 motors, sand he does the belts every few years.
same head, same tank, even original seals ( i am skeptical of that, but it's his claim)

oilers are fine, but honestly the method mentioned here is fine for most uses, a fews hots of light oil into the inlet every now and then keeps the equipment working fine.

fultime lubrication (imho) isnt necessary, if you take care of your stuff, keep the water out of the system, blows the tanks regularly, and you'd never need such as thing as full time lubrication.

I know others of you might have differents beliefs on this, but to me, full time lube of airtools, is about as useful as dog psycology.

[tooldummy]

Fabs,
I like Alemite products. They are available from about any auto parts store. You probably won't be operating over 125 PSI, and will most likely use 3/8 hose and 1/4 inch male threads I would imagine that is the most popular. I would imagine that about any good auto supply store would have them in stock. If you can't find one locally, let me know.
I thought I had a couple I had bought when the local Tractor Supply Co was going out of business, but what I have are two new lubricators, still in the box. New, never used, just dusty. The price tag says $6.99 plus tax (be about $7.42 total). If you still want a lubricator I would send you one of these and a dryer from a local supplier for whatever it would cost me. I suppose freight would be another $6.00 or so, I'd have to check my UPS shipper program at work.
This should take you to the info you are looking for:
http://www.alemite.com/catalog/details.aspx?identifier=air_standard_packages

It also has lubricator info.

[fabsroman]

What a pain buying a compressor for my garage is becoming. I am half sad that I decided to leave my old one with my dad.

I was going to buy the Ingersoll Rand SS5L5 that is a single stage compressor listed at something like 18.1 SCFM at 90 psi with a 60 gallon tank. I figured that would run anything I ever needed to use. Then I spoke to my brother and he told me that I should get a two stage compressor operating at a higher psi because the single stage would be playing catchup whenever I use a grinder, cutoff tool, sander, etc. I know I had this problem with the Craftsman 25 gallon compressor at my parents. According to my brother, the single stage compressor would be running the entire time if I were to use one of the above tools and that is what happened with the other compressor. So, I started looking at two stage compressors and those things are extremely expensive and/or they are 80 gallon tanks. The IR SS5L5 is $720 and I didn't even want to spend that much. All these other two stage compressors are $800+ except for one that I found made by Craftsman that is currently discontinued. I found one floor model and can buy it for $459. The Craftsman catalog says that it will run any tool they sell without a problem, yet it is only rated at 9.0 SCFM at 90 psi. I am getting a headache over trying to figure all this out.

Then, I found a website for Eagle Compressors and it looks like they make a two stage 60 gallon compressor that would work for me. Problem is that I cannot find anybody that sells them and their website is barely even running properly. What a pain.

Now, I need to get through the compressor purchase before worrying about everything else. Just when I thought I had something figured out, a simple conversation with my brother has me all screwed up.

You guys have any advice?

[tooldummy]

Well, I know how you feel Fabsroman, it is a little confusing, and a person hates to spend a lot of money you don't have to.
Ingerson Rand is deffinately the Cadillac of the compressors, and I wouldn't own anything but I-R air tools. But for the budget minded individual, I would recommend Campbell-Hausfeld. Thats what I own. Check out this website.


WWW.NorthernTool.com

Or like I told you about the Alemite products, about any good auto supply store should be able to get Campbell-Hausfeld. I bought my compressor from the local Napa store. It is a 6 1/2 hp motor, 60 gal tank and paid about $550 or so back about 8 years ago. My compressor is a single stage. It has done me well and I have run an orbital sander with no problems and impact wrenches are deffinately no problem.
I called a friend out at the local auto parts store for some help with this. He explained to me that a two stage compressor has one piston bigger than the other. The first piston compresses the air some, the second piston compresses it more. Instead of a 60 gal tank having 60 gal of air, it is like haveing 120 gal, if this makes sense. He said that the average homeowner, or even repair shop doesn't need this compressor. But, if you were going to run it all day long, 5 or 6 days a week, in a body shop running sanders or sandblasters, you might need it though. He said they had professional garages using the same compressor I am using. The price is now $575.00.
Hope this all helps you. If you need anything else, give me a shout.

[fabsroman]

Thanks Tooldummy for the info.

Initially, I was going to order my IR compressor from Northern Tools because they had it listed for $799 with free shipping. Then Sears had it listed for $720 but it is currently out of stock and the sale ends today at midnight.

I think I am just going to pay $469 for the Craftsman 60 gallon 2 stage compressor floor model and call it a day. About the only thing that can break on it is the shut off valve or control switch, and I can replace both of those pretty easily. I doubt people were banging on the motor while it was on the showroom floor.

[tooldummy]

The Craftsman sounds like a deal. It is built by Campbell-Hausefeld I am sure. My first compressor was a Sears and I used it for years with very few problems. Sounds to me like you made a good decision. They can probably get your dryer and lubricators, hoses, etc also. I'd ask them for a raincheck if it is on sale and they are out of stock.

[fabsroman]

Well, the Craftsman compressor is now sitting in my garage waiting for the electrical hookup and the regulator and filter.

I read all the labels on it and it turns out that it is made by Devilbiss. What is amazing is how Craftsman can sell a compressor like this for this price whereas the same thing under Deveilbiss' name or Campbell Hausfeld's name is a lot more expensive.