Basics needed for reloading .38 special?

[Xride]

Ok, I have searched and read alot. But I still come up with one question.

What equipment do I need to reload 38 special? without breaking the bank.


Thanks

[Jack]

Do you reload for any mettalic cartridge now? Or, are you starting from scratch?

[Xride]

Originally posted by Jack
Do you reload for any mettalic cartridge now? Or, are you starting from scratch?

Starting from scratch. I should have said that. sorry :)

[Rocky Raab]

I modestly refer you to my webpage to read Reloading 101 (click link below).

You can buy a very basic Lee Loader kit for about $20 (if you can find one) but most people would be better suited by getting a more capable outfit.

A Lee Anniversary kit is the simplest, least expensive and also least robust of the several reloading kits available.

Most other reloading companies offer reloading kits (RCBS, Hornady, Lyman, Redding, etc) that start in the $295 range. In addition to those, you'll need a set of dies for each cartridge, a matching shellholder plus expendable materials like powder, primers and bullets. Figure another $100 or a bit less.

It seems like a hefty outlay but reloading equipment almost never wears out, and you'll recoup the cost in as few as ten to twenty boxes of ammo versus factory stuff.

The very first thing to buy? A reloading manual. I highly recomend the Lyman Handbook for beginners. It has a great instructional section, and isn't restricted to a single brand of bullets or powder.

[denton]

Do read Rocky's pages. That's going to help you a lot.

Midway has a press kit, item 354021, for under $30. If you order it, or the Anniversary Kit, go to the Lee web page and order two new toggle links for their Turret Press, part TP2128, $3 each, and a new handle, part TP2105, $5, plus a new knob TR2447 for $3. When you assemble your press, toss the equivalent parts, and use the huskier parts from the Turret Press. With that modification, your press will last as long as you, your children, or your grandchildren care to use it.

Another alternative is the Lee Classic Cast press. It's $60, made of steel, and as good a press as you will find. It has a handy priming system, so if you buy that one, you won't need the other priming tools. It primes through the hole in the shellholder, and the tolerances are a little tight. You may find that you want to grind out the center hole in the shellholder a few thousandths.

The cheap way to trim cases is again the Lee trimming system. It mounts on a hand drill, and is very easy to use. Figure $10 for all that.

I don't care for the Lee scale. You might try the Hornady balance scale, and I think those are about $30.

Pick up a 4" digital caliper at Harbor Freight for $17.

Lee dies are fine, and you should be in business for under $25 in that department. You won't need case lube for straightwall cases.

The only powder dump I've ever had is the Lee Perfect, at under $25. I've run rigorous tests on it, and it is just fine with any of the ball powders, such as Accurate #5, and less fine with flake powders such as Unique.


Good luck! Enjoy the hobby!

[Xride]

Thanks :)
does buying one of the more expensive ones make more consistant ammo? or is it just easier/quicker?


I am reading reloading 101 right now too. :)

I notice the Lyman http://www.pistoleer.com/lyman/presses/
Crusher II Pro Kit w/Pro 500 Scale, seems to only need the die to be complete. and for 160 bucks would it be all I need?

But the lee one seems to be the same but much cheaper.

[Xride]

Ok I read your write up rocky, very informative. (I must comment that its a great domain and with your knowledge could be a very great site)
Thank you.

I kinda wish you would go into the equipment needed though too.

I was doing some searching and found places that said I needed to clean the used rounds befor reloading them, but failed to mention how I would do this.
But I dont know if I need to do i? I'll be at an indoor range, I cant see how it would get too dirty.

[Rocky Raab]

Either one will be fine. As Denton says, if you go Lee, their Classic press is as tough and durable as presses by the other main companies - with some clever features, too.

Lee dies also have the advantage of coming with a shellholder included, so that will save you a few bucks. A Lee die that I like, but which seldom receives mention is their very clever Speed Die. It's a single die body with a screw-in carbide sizer and a separate seater stem. In fact, that's the die I use for my own .38 Special loads. I also have one for 357 Magnum (it takes a separate one).

Come to think of it, if you can practice until you get consistent charge weights with their little powder scoop (comes with every die set), you could start loading .38 Specials with only the little Anniversay press, a Speed die set and the expendable components.

Adding other calibers later might require buying a better press (essentially starting from scratch with equipment) but to load JUST 38's, the press and a Speed Die would get you going nicely!

[denton]

Cleaning cases---

Your cases will come out of the gun sooty. Cleaning them isn't absolutely necessary, but it does make the whole process a lot more pleasant.

The cheap way to clean is while you have the case chucked in the special holder that fits in your drill, and are trimming them to length, hold a paper towel against the casing, and rev the drill.

The other way is to get a vibratory cleaner, and let the cases take a swim in that for a while.

Yet another way is to get a bottle of Birchwood and Casey cleaner, and send your cases for a swim in some hot water with a squirt of cleaner in it. Then rinse, and allow to dry for 24 hours, or bake at 175 F for 10 minutes.

The best I have found is the B&C cleaner, plus hot water, in an ultrasonic cleaner. I stumbled into a little ultrasonic cleaner for $5, and that really does a job on them.

That brings up one other thing you'll want: A primer pocket cleaner. Figure about $4 for that.

[Jack]

For a primer pocket cleaner, scrounge a 223 fired case from the local range.
Stick the neck in a vise and crush it flat. Then file the sides of the crushed flat neck on each side, until it fits into the primer pocket you want to clean. Insert, give it a turn, and your primer pocket is clean.

[Ol` Joe]

For a primer pocket cleaner, scrounge a 223 fired case from the local range.

Why bother?
I used a small screwdriver for years until I found out they made a special tool:D :D
Worked great, and served to adjust my dies too.