If you were gonna build a AR?

[GoodOlBoy]

If you were gonna build an AR (of whatever style) from the ground up a little at a time where would you start?

Just curious

GoodOlBoy

[skeet]

If I were going to do another AR I'd just start saving my money a little at a time and then go buy a Bushmaster Varminter. A friend got one back in Md and another friend here in Wyoming has one. The darn things shoot great..and for about 1200 bucks hard to beat the price. Great coyote rifle. PD's too.:D

[Lycanthrope]

For $1200 you can have semi custom with GURANTEED .5 MOA accuracy.

If you just want a truck gun or plinker start with a stripped lower ($100) from RRA or Stag (they are identical and made in the same shop....all that differs is the rollmark). That is considered "the firearm" by the ATF. You go through your FFL and everything else for the gun can be ordered through the mail. Later just buy a kit for about $400-$500 and slap it together in about an hour. My Model 1 light weight CAR shoots under 1 MOA with 69gr SMK and Varget. I shot the first 1000 rounds without cleaning the bolt and carrier.....it never burped.

For a tack driver, get a complete RRA or Stag lower. You go get a stripped lower and the parts, but you don't save that much here. Then just pin on a quality upper. You can get a Clark Gator for $800 and still have money left for a Jewell trigger to make the $1200 mark. They are guaranteed .5 MOA with good ammo. You also get a chromed bolt, adjustable gas block, free float carbon fiber handguard.....

http://www.clarkcustomguns.com/images/gator02.jpg

Or for a long range gun go with a White Oak upper. They have the 1:7 twist and have the same barrels (Compass Lake) that the 600 yard Highpower shooters use.

http://www.whiteoakarmament.com/custom_uppers/var2.jpg

At that point you're only at $800......plenty left for good glass.

[Bill Poole]

I'd spend hours and hours perusing www.ar15.com

I'd get a decent lower from a local dealer (Rock River, Bushmaster, etc )

and then a lower parts kit

and some magazines

then I'd probably finger out that I can buy a complete upper cheaper than a bunch of upper parts to build the same upper.

Shoot Good

Poole
http://arizona.rifleshooting.com/

[GoodOlBoy]

Thats what I was thinking about. Of course it won't be to soon, but I am thinking about my birthday and Christmas :D Anyway I have picked up and fondled ALOT of the complete guns off the rack from bushmaster to really oddball generics etc etc, and not one of them has ever feature, grip style, stock style, etc that I want. Therefore rather than purchase a $1000-$1200 gun then spend another $600 getting it the way I want it I was thinking about aprting one together.

Anybody got a good source for the Stag stripped lowers?

Am also looking around at the flattop carbine uppers if anybody has a source for those.

GoodOlBoy

[Lycanthrope]

Yep. Eagle Firearms and Title 2

http://www.eaglefirearms.net/

http://www.title2.com/

[Lycanthrope]

What features/barrel diameter/twist rate/front sight-gas block options/flash suppressor-brake-crown carbine uppers are you wanting?

[Skinny Shooter]

http://www.stagarms.com/

Check out this AR before you buy:
http://www.alexanderarms.com/grendel.htm
http://www.65grendel.com/
http://www.competitionshootingsports.com/catalogue/category33
It is supposed to have an edge over the new 6.8Rem.

[Lycanthrope]

The Grendel is nice, but pricey. The new 6PPC AR's should be real ultimate tack drivers if they feed well....that cartridge owns Benchrest.

Of course there is always the .243 WSSM AR's (55gr balls at 4000fps+), the .223 WSSM, the .204 Ruger, the .50 Beowulf, the .458 SOCOM, the 7.62x39, the .22 long rifle, the 9mm Luger.....etc.

[GoodOlBoy]

Actualy I am looking to stick with the .223 caliber rifle. If I was going to vary it I would consider a custom barrel in 222, BUT that could be hazardous at a range if you grabbed the wrong buddies mag.

Anyway nope no particular brand/flash/brake/anything. just thinking about flattop carbine with ghost rings.

GoodOlBoy

[GoodOlBoy]

Ok NORMALLY I would know the answer to this question but since I cannot see how the heck forging a reciever would work. What's the difference between cast and forged recievers?

GoodOlBoy

[Lycanthrope]

Same as engine parts. Forged aluminum receivers are stronger. Not an issue on a plinker, but a must for a hard use weapon. For the prices, the forged is worth it.

[Lycanthrope]

As for uppers.....you're talking "carbine" and not "rifle" so I'm assuming you're looking for a shorter gun than the 20" or 24" models. I have short and long guns and the mid or full length gas systems are definately smoother. Some say they are more relibale, but I can't really complain about the short guns I have.

If I were to build a tricked out "carbine" I would opt for the 18" gun with a full length gas system. The longer guns shoot faster on the clock for me in 3 gun at any distance outside of "across the living room" range. You get the extra velocity and sight radius with irons as well.

On top, I'd have a good set of flip up irons or detacheable A2 (stand alone - not carry handle style) front and rear. Eventually, these guns cry out for a red dot or ACOG so it's nice to have the option to cowitness. For the best acuracy in irons, consider the match style globe sights. They are also very fast.

I mentioned the Clark Gator. It also can be ordered in 18". Always an excellent choice. With the aluminum float tube you can add rails.

If you must have quad rails and a tight twist the ADCO guns are a good choice.

http://www.adcofirearms.com/sprbuild.cfm?page=build

Notice they use the White Oak barrels.....

Unlimited budget? Only one place to go.....

http://www.jprifles.com/

[GoodOlBoy]

I could only dream of unlimited budged. Actually I was really considering a full length gas system with a shorty barrel in a flat top rig. Anyway I am still looking around and saving pennies.

GoodOlBoy