Got it!

[GoodOlBoy]

I am now the proud poppa of a new(old) Winchester 67 22! she looks a little rough, but I will be VERY happy to treat her good. little 600 grit wet dry emery cloth on the bad spots. Alot of oil. And a new set of marbles sights and this little honey will be the bell of the ball.

BTW Any ideas on reblueing at home? Only thing I have around is that old blueing paste and I dunno about that stuff if it is any good or not. I used it to blue the hammers in paintball guns after I would do custom polish jobs for people way back when.

Anyway.

GoodOlBoy

[Rocky Raab]

GOB, here's my treatise on home bluing.

Cold bluing is a misnomer. It 's a "cold" process only as compared to the gunsmith's 325-degree hot salt bluing tanks. "Cold" bluing should be applied to warm metal for best results.

After all rust is removed and the metal surface is as smooth as you want (and be finicky about it!), put on eye protection as well as rubber gloves and completely degrease every exposed metal surface. Liberal application of spray brake cleaner works well. Do not touch the metal with bare skin after this step.

Hang the piece from wire hooks.

Now warm the metal with a hair dryer, heat gun or the careful use of a propane torch. You should get it warm enough that a drop of water evaporates almost instantly, but does NOT sizzle.

Now apply your favorite bluing solution or creme with a clean cotton cloth or swabs. Work lengthwise if possible. Keep applying coats of bluing as long as the metal is still warm. If you wish, you can rub lightly with 000 steel wool between coats. Re-heat large pieces if necessary to get more coats applied.

At this point, you may despair because the finish may look mottled and ugly with whitish or grayish patches. Don't panic. That's normal.

Now, while the metal is still warm, use a new clean rag and apply a good non-synthetic gun oil or even clean motor oil.

The finish will almost "pop" to a deep blue-black as soon as the oil hits it. Rub down well and allow to cool.

Done. You will have a finish that lasts as long as factory bluing, looks as good, and is just as tough. Really.

[Gil Martin]

I do just about everything that Rocky mentioned with the addition of rinsing the blued metal with warm water to neutralize the bluing compound. Sometimes, the cold bluing will start to rust unless the metal is rinsed. Then heat the metal with a hair dryer and finally apply a generous coat of gun oil. All the best...
Gil

[Rocky Raab]

Thanks, Gil. I forgot to mention "Follow the bluing instructions completely." Some cold bluing solutions DO say to rinse the excess solution off after applying it. Some don't. Do what the instructions say.

In any event, do it all with warm metal, start to end.

[GoodOlBoy]

Lemme start at the begining. I plan on doing an article on this one so that I can attempt to get it into one of the many gun mags out there. The gun (dry and extaclly as I purchased it) shoots CCI Velocitors, remington golden bullet, and federal lightning 22's dead on, BUT HIGH at 30 yards with the rear sight on the bottom. Since I am ordering new sights anyway this one be a problem. The riginal front sight has been bent in order to make it shoot straight, and it does. CCI Stingers shoot all over the place by the way. Velocitors were 23 inches high at 30. Golden bullets were 8 inches high at 30 and lightnings were 11 inches high at 30.

After spending about 2 hours gently removing the rust from the crown with 600 grit emery cloth and 3 in 1 household oil. The gun was fired again. Again all bullets performed the same EXCEPT they ALL shot 3 inches to the right (If you sight it where the bead WOULD have been before the front sight was bent they are STILL dead on, but high)

I removed the rust from the barrel working on it for about 3 hours using 600 grit emery cloth and 3-in-1 household oil. The barrel is has shallow pitting in places on the OUTSIDE. The inside looks almost new. With the barrel removed from the stock I used blue wonder to remove the last remnants of rust oil, etc from the barrel. The I liberally applied Birchwood Casey gun blueing past to the whole kit and kaboodle. The bluein is very light, however it is good enough to protect it which is all I wanted. After all this is about resurrecting a shooting gun, not creating a museum piece. Another coating of 3-in-1 household oil (And I will reapply it every day for a few weeks to make sure it is well protected) makes the barrel gleam between the pitting. I carefully removed rust and old buildup from the bolt, ejector, etc and after oiling them a little too heavy put it all back together. The ejector will need to be replaced as it looks to have been chipped and it only actually ejects every 7th round or so.

The gun was fired again and it shoots the same as it did after polishing the crown. The bore on this little 22 is SO tight that I can barely force a patch down it. Using hoppes I removed only light rusts from the bore (no lead fouling) and had clean patches in short order.

A heavy coating of boiled linseed oil on the stock really brought out the deep old wood color in it as well.

As soon as I recieve a response from marbles I will have the new sights on order. I wil post more then, and hopefully will be able to announce someday that the whole process (with pictures I might add) will be published. We shall see.

Adendum: I have rarely had as much fun shooting as I did with that 22 this weekend. By the way with the sight all the way down the gun was DEAD on at 90 yards with everything we tried except stingers.

GoodOlBoy