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gumpokc
03-26-2007, 12:15 AM
Ok this might need to go to the gunsmithing forum, but it does deal directly with a muzzleloader so I will put it here unless told otherwise.

I finally managed to drag my ML out of hibernation, and I have decided to refinish the stock.

It's an CVA St. Louis Hawken, with the set trigger, .50 and .54 barrels. I got it as a kit in '92 after I left active duty, and it been a good rifle, roundball only though.

The reason I am posting though, is that I would like some opinions...which do most people prefer, the boiled linseed oil finish or tung oil?

I am quite framilier with the BLO process and finish, but i've heard alot about using tung oil instead.
Does anyone here have any practical experience with using the tung oil to refinish a stock???

Any info or opinions appreciated.

roundball
03-26-2007, 06:42 PM
Neither of those but as one similar alternative, I've stripped and refinished several TC Hawken walknut stocks and have only used Brichwood Casey's Tru-Oil...no stain, nothing else...just several coats of Tru-Oil...beautiful finishes

Adam Helmer
03-26-2007, 07:01 PM
gumpokc,

Rest assured that your question is absolutely proper here as this is ML business.

I have a small bottle of tung oil someplace here in the house, but I never used it on a gun stock. I prefer boiled linseed oil on my wood stocks because touch up is so quick and easy. I rub in a few drops of BLO now and then on my stocks and they take on a rich, deep umber-like satin finish that appeals to me.

I have tried Linspeed and Tru-oil, but keep going back to BLO.

Adam

gumpokc
03-26-2007, 07:15 PM
Thanks Roundball, and Adam.

ONe of the things that brought this up, was that i was talking with a guy a couple of weeks ago who had a _really_ beautiful stock on his CVA hawken.

I asked him where he got his wood from, and he stated it was the actual stock from his kit, but he spent a alot of time prepping his. It looked like it had a finish you could stare down into.


he began by sanding her down progressively to 400 grit sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool. Put a very light stain on, just enough to color the grain slightly.

then he said he used 12 coats of tung oil. 3 coats, then rebuff and repeat till 12 coats, then did a very light buff, and final coat was BLO.

He mentioned soemthing about how he was told the final coat of BLO hardened the finish.

No idea if thats true or not, but it was one of the nicest stocks I have ever seen, even in pictures.

Figured i'd come here and see what others might know or have to say.

Thanks for the info Roundball, I will look into that Casey's.

roundball
03-26-2007, 07:49 PM
Three examples:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v630/roundball/Muzzleloading/123006-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v630/roundball/Hunting%20Photos/111203.jpg
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/239/239367/folders/178744/15308481RightSideButtStock800.JPG

Gil Martin
03-26-2007, 08:25 PM
Excellent pictures. The stock looks fabulous and it looks like Tru-Oil. All the best...
Gil

gumpokc
03-26-2007, 11:34 PM
OOO nice pics there Roundball, those are all Casey's tru-oil?

I definately need to look into that.

Thanks again.

skeet
03-27-2007, 12:38 AM
I hate hate hate to finish stocks almost as much as I hate checkering. I've used all the finishes stated and the best by far is the Tru oil. And as it is a type of oil finish if ya get a scratch or something you can just re-do the area with a good rubdown with the tru oil...and if really bad use a bit of 3/0 steel wool.. In fact, I have a spray can for just such uses. I hit it with a light spray and then rub rub rub! I do have a little Winchester 69 that I refinished with BLO way back in 1962 and with a light rubbing of oil every year or so it looks just fine. A full finish with BLO and Linspeed is a real job in my opinion. But as I said. I hate to refinish stocks. Oh and the BLO finish really does darken over the passage of time.

One of the prettiest finishes you could put on a stock was the French finish. French finish was done by using a little BLO and shellac and rub rub rub. After about 10 coats...oooolala! Almost as pretty as Brigette Bardot...Remember her?

roundball
03-27-2007, 06:34 PM
Originally posted by gumpokc
OOO nice pics there Roundball, those are all Casey's tru-oil?

I definately need to look into that.

Thanks again.
Yes, all Tru-Oil...and for the record I'm just a weekend hacker...don't know beans about stock refinishing.

I drop off a used stock at an antique furniture place that has a chemical stripping booth...pay them $20 to professionally chemically strip the stock, pick it up the next week...it's clean to the bare wood, no sanding done to change stock dimensions, etc.

Get home, take 10 minutes to wipe on the first coat of Tru-Oil, and hang it up in the warm house for a few days to get bone dry.

The next weekend I lightly slide "0000" steel wool over it, and wipe on the next coat...repeat that cycle 6-7 times and it's good enough for me.

What I've also found is that very often underneath the automated spray-on TC factory finish are some very pretty pieces of walnut with good grain & figure...something about the Tru-Oil takes to the different types of grain and figure and just makes them 'pop' into view.

IMO, Tru-Oil is one of life's little success stories....inexpensive, easy to get, easy to use, works as advertised, etc, etc...haven't found a down-side yet.

Adam Helmer
03-28-2007, 02:51 PM
roundball,

Very nice pictures. I hesitate to say that the stocks on my muzzleloaders look as good with BLO. Maybe it is the long northern PA Winters and lots of rubbing by the woodstove.

I put BLO on many other stocks and like the finish. Thanks for the pictures.

Adam

roundball
03-28-2007, 06:36 PM
Adam, please be sure you understand...I simply responded to a question about what we used for finishes...wasn't making any
point that Tru-Oil was any better or worse than anything else...

gumpokc
03-28-2007, 09:08 PM
Roundball,

I am sure Adam understands fine

We've had many discussions, some in agreement, some in headbutting, groundpawing disagreement :D

It all works out in the wash just fine though !:)

I've seen really nice stocks with BLO, and tung before, and now tru-oil with the pics you've shown, i'll have some decide'en to do :)

Adam Helmer
03-29-2007, 12:12 PM
roundball,

I should have said, there are lots of nice finishes and a lot depends on the piece of wood and the time spent applying same.

gumpokc translated my thoughts better than I posted. Your stocks show your careful craftsmanship. Be well.

Adam

gumpokc
03-29-2007, 01:05 PM
You know Adam, I think you mentioned the thing that probably makes the most difference.

Stock prep and attention to detail.

No matter which method or materials is used, you can't get more out of it than you put into it.

jplonghunter
05-08-2007, 08:20 PM
gunpokc

What finish did you decide to use and how did it turn out. I have used only tung-oil( 7 coats hand rubbed) for years with excellent results.

jplonghunter

gumpokc
05-08-2007, 08:55 PM
I havent actually started yet :/

It's just going to be a "summer" project, as soon as I tried to start, things got hectic at work, as usual :/

I have the ML, 2 91/30's, an M44, and a turk mauser that i may redo the stocks on.

none are matching numbers guns so I'm not worried about hurting any of them.

I will do one of each, the BLO i know how it works, probably do the 2 91/30's one each in Tung, 1 in casey's tru-oil, and then decide from there.

If i can get the true oil to come out like roundball's, i will do the ML with that, looks really good.
But until i do all my sanding and wood prep, I wont have to make a hard decision.

Will furnish pics when i get done. May be fall by then though.