Comming Soon - New front porch!

[GoodOlBoy]

When my wife and I first moved into our doublewide I built a "temporary" front porch. An 8x8 that is not covered by anything but the good Lord's own sky to replace the junk stairs we were "given" by the company that sold us the home. That was five years ago. (Whew has it been that long?) SOOOOO now the time has come to make the "temporary" front porch a back porch by our sliding glass doors, and build a new front porch. I will begin and finish construction the week of July 21st of this year. It will be a 10' x 20' with a corrugated tin roof. Eventually we will add front lights, a ceiling fan, and probably screen it in. But for now we need a darned porch. One because we need a place out of the rain and scorching East Texas summer sun to get into the house, and two because said sun heats the front of my house to approx 1.3 billion degrees F each afternoon starting about 2:00pm CST and extending to about 6:30pm CST. This naturally causes the air conditioning to run like there's no tomorrow. We have already covered the bedroom windows on that side with "insta cling automobile tinting" which helped quite a bit, but the front door, and the living room windows still heat BADLY. The porch will cover all of this area and help with cooling costs.

Anyway as a "build your own" project I will attempt to post pictures as it is finished. This will be the fifth porch I have designed and built in my life (my great grandfather on my grandmothers side was a carpenter, a plumber, a welder, and an auto mechanic) and as always I will be doing this from what I figured on paper. No predesined, prefab nothing will be going into this. If anybody wants to discuss it feel free to post and I will reply.

Stats
10' (E to W measurement) x 20' (N to S measurement)
decking blocks (no concreting in because of fireants and termites in east Texas)
4x4 posts
2x6 subfloor (15 inch centers. Yes I know thats odd. trust me it works perfectly for subfloors where decking boards and not plywood is used) May still go 2x8 I don't know at this point
2x4 crossbracing of the posts beneath the subfloor (adds a TON of stability when you are not concreting in your posts)
1x6 decking
2x4 rafters and rails
1x4 across the rafters to nail the roof to.
corrugated tin for roof
Lattice work for skirting and between the rails and decking for privacy.
All preassure treated materials.
I also use metal "rafter brackets" to give the subfloor and ceiling more stability besides just "end nailing" them.


Normally I build these things useing 2x10 subflooring and use 2x6s for the decking. BUT My family has convinced me to do it this way since I am not goind to be parking a semi truck on it and since I am using the "stimulus" check for a good portion of the material cost.

I have 1 definant 2 maybe builder helpers who will arrive to assist in the project that I can count on not to screw up more than they fix, not to have a ton of accidents, and not to collapse on me from health problems.

Building Schedual looks like the following.

Saturday, July 12th - purchase materials for delivery Monday, July 14th This gives them an extra week to get me materials if they are out of something.

Monday, July 21st -
AM - move current front porch to rear of house via the "lift and walk" method :p begin initial setup of first 10'x10' section. Be finished with first section subfloor, decking, and hanging stairs by lunch (otherwise we can't get back into the house to eat :D can I motivate or can I motivate?)

PM - since the sun will be beating on the new front section we retreat to the rear of the house, level the old front porch and set it up to serve as a "temporary" back porch by the sliding glass doors in the rear of the house.

Tuesday, July 22nd -
AM - Start section 2 subfloor. Get subfloor up, level, and decking on before afternoon.
PM - wait until 7pm and start rafters for roof (this is when the porch is shaded in the afternoon)

Wednesday, July 23rd -
AM - finish roof, mount latticework around bottom and rails of porch.
PM - drink a couple dozen cold cokes while sitting on my new front porch.

Available tools at the moment. Cuttoff saw, electric chainsaw (for cutting 4x4s), skill saw, cordless screwdriver, hammer, nails, etc.

GoodOlBoy

[toxic111]

The 2x6's for your joists @ 10' span will be fine, yes the 15" centres is odd... I would be surprised it works out better than 16"o.c. since you will get an end every 4' (e.g. 4', 8', 12', etc.) unless you are going with 10' long decking, then that will work out perfect.

As for your rafters, on that same 10' span I would go 2x6 over 2x4 just to prevent any sagging (the 2x4's will sag over 10' just from thier own weight)

I also saw that you are planning on using a chainsaw for cutting the 4x4, I would jsut use the skilsaw for that, it will give you a much better cut, just square it off, and make your first cut, then flip it over to make the second cut.

Oh FYI, my experience & job is in construction & design, residential and commercial, over 20yrs worth.

The only other item is to make sure if you need a permit or not, most areas if you are building anything bigger than 10'x10' you will need one, it will save you a lot of grief later.

[Catfish]

I didn`t see the matterial for the shooting bench, can`t have a finished pourch without a shooting bench.

[GoodOlBoy]

I might consider using the 2x6s for the roof joists, as for a permit I am 10 miles from the closest city limits. And yes I am using 10' decking. The reason for using the chainsaw is because I usually don't cut the 4x4s until I am ready to nail down the 1x4s across the roof. Then I trim them flush. Whats your opinion on the 2x6s for the subflooring? It will be the first time I have used anything smaller than a 2x8.

I took a construction class in high school from one of the local construction guys (was worth credit so I figured what the heck) and I had already helped my relatives build just about everything around. One thing about our structures once they are built they stay built. No flimsy nothing with this bunch. (Some of my great grandfathers stuff is still standing and still solid and over fifty years old)

Shooting bench? I am a redneck I just shoot off the rail :D

GoodOlBoy

[GoodOlBoy]

Yeah I am going to go with the 2x6's. I thought about it for what a couple minutes? I appreciate the advice. Still wondering about using 2x8s for the floor instead of 2x6s. I usually use treated 2x6s for the decking but the wife is concered with cost (here the 2x6s are cheaper than 5/8ths decking boards) With treated 2x6s for decking then I use 2x10s for the subfloor, but again cost.

Anyway any advice is greatly appreciated.

I called lowes earlier as corrugated tin was the only thing I didn't have a price for. 12' sheets of corrugated tin (2.5' wide) are just over $20 a piece. Thats around $240 for the cost of the tin roof alone :p

GoodOlBoy

[Jack]

Looks like a plan, GOB.
The one thing I might do different is to put a layer of foam insulation under the tin roof. I know it's a screened in area, and not heated, but the insulation will deaden the noise of rain, hail, etc on that roof- a lot!

[toxic111]

Sorry GOB I was out all day...

As for going to the 2x8's instead of the 2x6's for the joists, that would be much better, less bounce, especially with only using 1x6's for the decking.

Other than that everything sounds not bad.

Only questions is what you plan is for the beam to support your roof. I am not sure what your spans between posts will be, or I would give you my recommendation.

As for the permit, better check with your county to make sure (around here if I am on the Saskatchewan side I don't need one (in some rual areas only) on the Alberta side I do need one.

Better safe than sorry anyway.

Fire away with any other questions.

[Lilred]

I agree w/ the 2x6's for rafters and at min. 2x8 for your ledge.
A hint about your tin....check around at the gauge and 2ft vs 3ft. You'll be surprised at the differences in price. You might be better off going to a lumberyard for your tin, but make sure they have enough to do your project.
There is a difference in manufacturin processes too!!
Some companies you might see are Diverisifed, Orange Steel, or McElroy. They are all reputable companies with decent products.

[GoodOlBoy]

Yeah as for tin I am kinda stuck with lowes, everybody else (including the old standby lumberyards I normally use) are either low on it, or their stock is older than me an rusted to boot.

Support for the roof will be treated 4x4s. One every five feet around the edge of the porch. The subflooring will have an additional three in the middle of it that are cut flush with the bottom of the decking so you don't see it.

I am so far back in the woods that the only time my county agent ever sees my house is when they drive by during deer season.

GoodOlBoy

[fabsroman]

GOB,

Glad to see that you are staying put. Personally, I would be scared to use 2x6's for the floor joists, but that is just me. Also, as far as the worry about money is concerned, it is always better on a construction job to spend it up front and do the job right than to skimp and have to deal with a mess later, especially when it comes to floor joists. Replacing decking isn't too terrible, but replacing the joists after the decking is on and the roof is up isn't going to be fun.

As far as the permit goes, if one is required I would suggest getting it. However, I have seen plenty of projects done without permits. Actually, it is utterly amazing and these were all in the city. It is a judgment call on your part.

[skeeter@ccia.com]

Around these parts, you only need a permit for a porch roof if a neighbor complains you don't have one....found that out..zone officer said he passed my place every day and didn't give a hoot but after a zealous neighbor called him, he had to stop..could of made me remove the roof but just let me pay the $5 for permit....
Nothing was mentioned as to how you are to attatch the roof to the house....how much snow you get?....I used lag bolts one every foot to attatch 2x6 to side of house but snow got so heavy once right where the 2 10' 2x6 met in middle, is where mine let go.....dumped whole thing .....I should of put a post against the house right under the split ...na....never see that anywhere...just too much snow I guess... I am moving out of town to the woods again....yeee ha...only 6 acres but next to the state game lands and that 150 acre farm I tried to get Fabs to buy a while ago...will fence it in again and put a few horses in there...(something that makes its own gas)...but the view from the porch...yea..miles..we already own the place and now need to sell this one...house market sucks now..yikes....is hard keeping up with 2 places now..good luck with your porch...and many happy tmes on it.

[fabsroman]

Skeeter,

Don't you think for a minute that I forgot about that 150 acres that could be timbered every 30 years. Trust me, I think about it plenty. After my wife and I move out of this townhouse and get situated with a single family home, a farm will be the next thing on my list. However, I think I'll be looking at the Eastern Shore of Maryland, or maybe even western Maryland. PA is just too far to drive, especially now with gas being what it is.

[PaulS]

rule of thumb for the lumber needed for any given span is height times height times width. (nominal)
2x4 = 2x4x4 = 32" span (3')
2x6 = 2x6x6 = 72" span (6')
2x8 = 2x8x8 = 128" span (10' 8")
2x10 = 2x10x10 = 200" span (16' 8")
It is just a rule of thumb and at the extremes it is faulty but from 2x6 to 2x12 it is close.
________
Honda Vfr1200F (http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Honda_VFR1200F)

[GoodOlBoy]

Alrighty so the folling are the changes made after discovering I was only saving about $100 by going the 1X route.

Subfloor
preassure treated 2x8x10 s (20" centers. Yes yes I know its as odd as the 15s but I have used this configuration before and the porch was nearly indestructable)
preassure treated 4x4x10 posts (will also have the roof mounted to them)

Decking and step surface
preassure treated 2x6x10 s

roof
preassure treated 2x6x10 rafters
preassure treated 1x4x10 s across the rafters to nail Tin to.

Rails
preassure treated 2x4s

For much of the rafter and subfloor hanging hardware I will be using SIMPSON Strong-Tie Double Shear Hangers for added support.

GoodOlBoy

[GoodOlBoy]

Oh by the way with the above configuration I am looking at a cost of around $1300 for the porch. Will probably be a bit more after delivery.

GoodOlBoy

[GoodOlBoy]

After delievery tax title license chipping damaging and bad attitude from one idiot that works at lowes (Who the manager probably aint real happy with because he had to wind up giving me a 10% discount on the whole order to make ME happy afterward) the grand total came to $1403.. . . . . uhm and some change.

ANYWAY it should all be delivered today.

2x8 joists
2x6 decking
corrugated galvanized tin
all pressure treated lumber. . . .

ARR ARRR ARRR ARRR ARRR (Tim Allen mangrunt)

GoodOlBoy

[skeeter@ccia.com]

unless I missed something...I still not heard how you plan to attatch the roof to the house. I am asking because I know I will get information that I can use soon....

[GoodOlBoy]

Not attaching the roof to the house. The roof will be freestanding as part of the porch. The 4x4s that hold up the roof (12 of them one every 5 feet around the edge of the porch) will hold the subfloor, and the roof.

Delivery was made about two hours ago. . . . :D

GoodOlBoy

[skeeter@ccia.com]

Ok...GOB...will be awaiting pictures here..

[GoodOlBoy]

WOOT ya win da prize dat was da magic wordiness.

Future porch!

GoodOlBoy

[Nulle]

Interesting: I just finished a 16'X16' deck and the story goes like this = Well grandpa got the kids a pool for the 2 and 3 year olds, now this is not the small pool I should have got but the big one.
Problem 1 was that it needs a level spot to set it up and all my land has a great deal of slope. Hence comes the deck but the kids love it and grandpa lol

[scalerman]

Just a quick note from my experience. You may find the pressure treated 1x4 wants to curl and twist. I would use pressure treated only where it is going to be in contact with the soil or moisture, for long periods of time. I see lots of people use it for decking and in no time the boards twist so much that they break off the heads of the screws. Using it for the joists might not be a bad idea- probably don't have to as you are going to use boards for the deck- there will be spaces in between for the water to run out. Just my two cents worth.

[Nulle]

I have had the same problem with that treated junk in the past.

[skeeter@ccia.com]

The new plastic wood products they use now is great stuff...I have used it and not only is it easy to work with but is no warp..rot....nothing and easy to drill , cut etc etc...might be worth checking into...and....if you are into the recycle thing....helps there too..

TREX is a brand name but I think Lowes sells something of same nature but diff name..Not other work is needed like waterproofing etc you need do with real lumber...Looks like wood but mix of materials...great ...maybe just use it for your deck boards????

[Mil Dot]

Skeet,
Judging by the stack GOB has there it's a little late to swap to a Trex product.
Trex is a nice product as you described, a little on the $$ side.

29.00 per 5/4 x6"x12' stick

We all may need a little more economic stimulus ... Dear George ...

[fabsroman]

Don't get me started about economic stimulus. If we had all saved some money during the last decade, we wouldn't need anything from the government, all of which we will eventually have to pay back. I don't know what generation is at fault. There may be several to blame. Maybe the baby boomer generation for letting things get out of hand with social security, medicare, and medicaid, and the national debt. Most definitely my generation for not saving any money. I have a bunch of clients in financial straights, and it is all because they have absolutely nothing in savings and they cannot weather even the slightest down turn because they owe so much on credit that they need $7,000 to $8,000 per month to "live" which I guess "live" equates to avoiding bankruptcy or foreclosure.

Now, the government has to bail out Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac, and about 400,000 homeowners from foreclosure to the tune of $4 billion. The cost could end up being as high as $25 billion some say.

This entire fiasco has been brewing over a decade or more, and there isn't any one person or individual generation to blame.

Now, back to the original subject. When/If we build a deck on our next house, I will most definitely use TREX or a similar product, and put plastic railings on the deck. I love the minimum maintenance feature and cannot stand power washing and staining my current deck. I'm probably going to go with plastic fencing around the yard so I can avoid having to deal with maintenance on that, but I am debating brick columns and iron fencing.

[justwannano]

So GOB where are the pix of your new porch?

[GoodOlBoy]

pics will be comming, the decking, the porch, even the roof rafters are done. The roof isn't on because I decided to try and see if I could make a #2 square bit go all the way to the bone through the top of my left thumb. Turns out I could do it, and could stop the torque of the drill in the process. Soooo roof will have to wait for another weekend. Yep wish I had known about the treated 1x4s, they are already bowed twisted and torqued all over the place.

GoodOlBoy

[fabsroman]

My thumb is pulsing just reading about that. Get better quick GOB, and I'm sorry to hear about the 1x4 boards. Hopefully, your experience with your thumb and the boards has taught you a lesson, and hopefully, others will learn from it too.

[Mil Dot]

Used to be you only had to worry about bashing it with a hammer!

Now you have the aid of technology to really hurt yourself!

Hope it gets better soon.

[GoodOlBoy]

Alright alright I took this one with my phone on my camera on the way out this morning. Just ignore the old material from the old porch, the cart full of garbage etc.

As I said I sill need to cut the top of the posts, put in the cross support between the rafters, put on the 1x4s and then put on the tin. Should take about a weekend with a little help.

GoodOlBoy

[Jack]

Looks nice, GOB!
Or should we start calling you Thumbdriller? ;)

[justwannano]

Looks good.
Don't see no rockin chair though. lol
hows the thumb doin?
have a good one
just

[GoodOlBoy]

Thumb is doing alright. Still sore on the top but good to go other than that. I have a doctors appointment monday for a health checkup (had a few minor problems lately) so I won't be able to put the roof on this weekend. Maybe next weekend.

GoodOlBoy

[DogYeller]

GOB, I can empathies with you. I once ran a bushing tool in a 15 lb pneumatic hammer over my thumb. One pass was enough.

http://www.relton.com/images/carbide%20bushing%20tool.gif