Question for Gil & Rest of my HC cronies

[jon lynn]

Okay stick with me, this is another 'What the heck is he asking?' Jon posting.

I have another action, VZ24, just dying to be barreled. I intend to wait until my move to Kentucky, but I found two .243 barrels I am interested in. One is a varmint heavy barrel 26", and one is a standard hunting style 24"

I like to go to the range and shoot, and hate the long wait between three shot groups, (middle age did not bring patients), this is the only reason I want a heavy barrel, because I don't go varminting, if I did I would use a .223

The barrels are only $10 difference, both are a 1:10 twist. So should I go heavy just to do it? I can still carry a heavy barrel for deer.

Your thoughts?

[Joe Boleo]

Most of my bolt action rifles have sporter weight barrels and are free-floated. I am not concerned about the barrel heating up so do not wait between groups. I have some rifles with varmint barrels, but have not noticed much difference in accuracy over sporter weight barrels. So, it depends what you prefer. Take care...
Joe

[skeet]

Sporter weight jon..That heavy one gets real heavy real quick..hunting

[jon lynn]

Sporter it is.

Two similar replies off the bat!

Wow, this was quick, thanks Y'all!

[Jack]

Varmint barrels do take longer to heat up, but. . . they heat up, too - and they take longer to cool down once they are heated up.

[Larryjk]

Don't forget that when you are hunting you will not be firing several shots to heat the barrel before you fire the important shot for score. What I mean is; your first shot when hunting is the one you really need to knowwhere it is going to go. Those sighting shots should be fired from a cold barrel.

[skeet]

Larry..ya know I always wondered about that. We sight our rifles in over a short period of time. Some rifles can be several inches off from a cold bbl. I had an ol M-70 Swift that shot first shot cold amost 6 inches high and an inch right. If I remembered sometimes I still hit somethin with it..after that 1st one...on target

[jplonghunter]

Jon

Just to further the discussion, purchase the heavy barrel and have it fluted to reduce weight. Provides rigidity,cools faster. Let the discussion begin.

jplonghunter

[Gil Martin]

My preference would be for a sporter barrel that was free floated. All the best...
Gil

[Larryjk]

Skeet, The first shot from a cold barrel is damned important in a big game rifle. If my rifles won't target from a cold barrel, I go to work on them. So far I have not had to sell a rifle because it couldn't be fixed, but there would be very little reason to keep a rifle that won't hit the mark on the first shot. More comon error is a rifle that starts wandering after the first shot.
Make sure the barrel is free on copper fouling.
Bed the action with pillars and have a glas plug back of the recoil lug. Make sure the recoil lug is free on the sides, front and bottom. Float the barrel. If it won't shoot then, let someone else practice on it.
Todays barrels are much better and have less stress from straightening and other problems. A custom barrel will usually shoot better and you pay for that expectation.

[skeet]

Larry I was in one of the firearms factories once and saw them straightening bbls with a big ol wheel jack..they did it by eye... This was years ago of course. I sold that ol Swift years ago..at an auction and got a bundle..just cause it was a M-70. Now I'm gonna ask ya.. I got the ol Win 54.. Can any work be done on the trigger..OY Vey...and I ain't even Jewish..I bought it knowing that the triggers are terrible so not that concerned...BUT

[buckhunter]

In my rifles I find that the first shot out of cold clean barrel is usually a couple of inches off. I normally shoot a couple of shots to get the barrel fowled let it cool and go from there. I site mine cold. Just another point I find that the zero shifts if I site in on a very hot day say 85 or higher. During my final site in before hunting season I try to do it on a mild day. Normally if its 50-60 out its good to 0.

[Larryjk]

Skeet, Yes, the Model 70 triggers and 54s that are like them can be worked over; but not easily. It isn't just turning screws and changing springs. It is done with stones. The first thing to do is get the trigger and sear glass smooth at their contact sirfaces. Make sure they are "flat" to each other so the release is as easy as possible. Then start reducing the tip of the trigger that controls the amount of sear engagement. Look in the window on the side of a Remington trigger. The engagement is about 0.030 and that works quite well.Stone the Winchester trigger until you have about the same engagement when cocked. Then you can adjust the amount of ressure on the trigger spring reset spring. Make sure you leave some feelable backlash so the trigger can reset.
Should be able to get the trigger down to about 2 lbs. That is fine for a varmint rifle and actually a little light for hunting. Make daarn sure the safety works well after you are through messing with the trigger. Use stones: no power equipment. Always stone along the long axis of the sear or trigger for a smooth job. Good luck!

[Larryjk]

Skeet, I actually can spell rather well, but sometimes my brain is way ahead of the fingers typing. Sirfaces should be surfaces and ressure should be pressure. the extra a in darn is for emphasis. Mea culpa.