Loading Blocks

[270man]

Fellow Reloaders,

I still load my handgun ammo the old way -- single stage press, etc. I process my cases in big lots and keep them ready for charging. Sometimes the are primed and sometimes not. My Bonanza Bullseye Pistol Powder Measure is pretty accurate for most handgun powders and primed cases set in my loading block for charging.

I have 4 different blocks and my favorite for handgun cases is a yellow Flambeau that holds 60 rounds of large caliber cases on oneside and 60 smaller caliber cases (e.g., 40S&W, 9mm) on the other side. The holes are square. The only problem with this block is that it is a bit too thick. The cases set too deep in the holes and are a little difficult to pick up with the fingers.

Do any of you find this a problem? If so, I would like to hear what type and brand of loading block you prefer.

270man

[Gil Martin]

Sometimes small handgun cases can be a challenge, but I have adapted over the years. All the best...
Gil

[Jack]

I use the 'drill a bunch of holes in a wooden block' brand of loading blocks. :)
That way, I can tailor a block to a specific case when needed- like for 32 ACP cases. The 32 ACP needs a small hole and a shallow block.
It is some work to make a bunch of different blocks, I suppose, but, they last forever.

[Dom]

I have too many loading blocks and not enough :D I've got a mixture of them, some wooden ones from Midway, the green plastic RCBS, and the no name square type. I prefer the wooden block ones, even though most of them are filled up at various stages in the reloading process. But each has a load note so I can remember exactly at what stage I'm at.

I just checked Midway and they do not have their wooden ones anymore, they are good, and not Universal. I'd recommend either making some out of wood or going with the perfect fit Frankford Arsenal ones. The only issue I have with the wood ones are that one of mine has warped so it don't sit flat anymore. Gonna have to DX it, Waidmannseil, Dom.

[skeet]

I have many of the wooden Midway blocks..many. My cure for them with short cases was to run them through the planer When I got them the right depth I just stopped and marked 'em for the caliber. I used some for the 380 I've not loaded the 32 ACP in years. As far as the plastic ones 270 man..get some plain ol modeling clay..see how much it takes to shorten the holes a bit and fill 'em all up to that depth. I did that years ago for the 32 ACP..but have lost the thing sometime in the past. If the holes are square cut make you a little square piece of wood out of scrap and push that ol clay right into the hole. If round use a close sized dowel.. I use progressives for handguns most of the time except for high intensity rounds like the 44 mag 500 Smith etc when loading to the max area. In fact I got a Dillon Square Deal B Friday set up for 9mm so will probably use it for the little bit of 9mm I load. It WAS cheap...like me

[dovehunter]

My loading blocks are the old plastic Herters' types. They made separate ones for rifle and pistol. The holes are round and the depth of the pistol block is just about right for everything for which I load but the 9mm. The recesses are a little deep for the 9mm but I can get the cases out with my fingers as long as I am careful. I still do all my loading with a single-stage RCBS press too. It's the only press I've ever had and I've had it now for about 40 yrs. Never seen the need to upgrade.

[dmickey]

If you want to be rid of the Flambeau Twin 60 blocks, let me know! I have twenty-one of them and could use more!

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Don't find it a problem, as I don't use loading blocks. If the case is below or close to the edge of the block, why don't you invest in a pair of forceps or hemostats to grab the edge of the case and pull it out? Just a thought.

[skeet]

I have used those to pick cases out but it is another hand movement and really messes up your timing. I pick a case out of one block and do what needs to be done and put it in a block on the other side..No guessing if it has been charged primed sized or whatever. Picking up a tool for every case is kind of a pain. But it do work.I feel that the use of 2 loading blocks gives you a basis from which to be confident ie each case has had the operation done to it if it is on either the left or the right. Just keeps my feeble mind from worrying.

[dovehunter]

I also like to use multiple blocks when loading. I do have two Herters' rifle blocks but only one pistol. I'd love to get another of their pistol blocks but don't think it likely. I may have to give some of the new blocks a try.

[Ridge Runner]

why not use an inch board, and for short cases just nail a piece of 3/8's plywood with the proper holes drilled in it to the board, for long rifle cases use another inch board with hoes drilled all the way through.
RR