gun cleaning

[270man]

I'm not sure where to post this issue since we don't have a Gun Cleaning & Maintenance forum but I need some inputs from all of you who clean your firearms (everyone?).

For many years I've used BreakFree CLP to coat my barrels after cleanng with various solvents (e.g., Hoppes #9, Shooters Choice). I also wipe the extenal surfaces with a rag lightly coated with CLP. I am now down to the end of my bottle of CLP and was surprised by what I found in the stores (in addition to the higher prices). One store had an aerosol can labeled CLP but their 4-oz squeeze bottle (my preference) was only labeled "LP". I can only assume that the LP formula is CLP with the Cleaning component removed. Don't know when the company made this change but only the CLP formula was sold when I bought mine several years ago.

Since I thoroughly clean barrels and actions with other sovents, a cleaning component in BreakFree is probably not necessary. I may try to contact the company to find out the why and when of this change. Meanwhile, some of you may have thoughts and comments. If you have other favorite oils for lubing and preserving, I would like to hear from you too.

270man

[GoodOlBoy]

I think most folks post this sort of thing under gunsmithing, however you are welcome to post it here 270.

I use 3-in-1 household oil..... that's it. If I am at the range and I need a quick squirt I may toss some rem oil on it, but I have used 3-in-1 on all my firearms and have never had a problem. The ONLY time I use solvents on a barrel is if there is an actual problem... IE it has happened twice in all my years. Once on a blackhawk that was completely leaded over, and once on a 22 that had the same issue. Both have been repeatedly and often used since with never an issue. If I am cleaning a barrel then I use a cotton cloth patch, and 3-in-1 household oil. Not saying anybody else's methods are wrong.

Use what works for you.

GoodOlBoy

[Mr. 16 gauge]

I use various solvents (mostly Hoppes & Shooters choice) to remove copper, lead, and powder fouling.....once the fouling is gone, I LIGHTLY coat the inside of the barrel with WD-40, and lightly wipe down all external metal surfaces as well....for lubrication, I use either graphite or one of the newer silicon sprays....it's less messy, doesn't collect dust & dirt while hunting, and won't gum up in extremely cold temperatures.
CLP is good, and I used to use it, but I think there are other products out there now that are better...

[Jack]

I've used BreakFree CLP since it came out, as a lubricant. I've never used it as a cleaning agent- there's many others for that.
I wasn't aware there was an LP, either.

[dovehunter]

The last time I was at Bass Pro Shop they had aerosol cans of BREAKFREE both the CLP and (as I recall) the cleaner only. I too use either HOPPES #9 or (if I can find it) the OUTERS' brand bore solvent and have done so for years. Like someone else I have always been a fan of WD-40 and also use it lightly inside the bore after cleaning with other solvents and to wipe down the other parts prior to storage. I've heard other folks say you should never use WD-40 on guns but (maybe out of ignorance) I have been using it now for probably 40 years and haven't had any problems (at least any of which I am aware). I do, however, like the BREAKFREE CLP and think it would make an excellent preservative and lubricant which could certainly be used effectively in a pinch as a cleaner.

I once bought an aerosol can of REM OIL mistakenly thinking it was a cleaner. I used it as a bore solvent, since it was the only thing I had at the time, and it seemed to work okay. It said on the can that it could be used as a cleaner. It was also labeled as a CLP. It was definitely oily though, too much so in my opinon for use as a cleaner or bore solvent.

[GoodOlBoy]

WD40 can draw moisture out of the air and onto your gun in very humid environments. If also can cause wood stocks to shrink and crack. I am not saying it always does it I am saying it CAN do it. I know other people who have had very good luck with wd40.

GoodOlBoy

[Adam Helmer]

270man,

Gun cleaning is a great subject. For years I used Hoppes#9, Shooter's Choice and CLP (Clean, Lube and Preserve). I have used G.I. Bore Cleaner and hot, soapy water, followed by dry patches and oil. Any bore cleaner on the market today is fine, just follow the instructions on the label IF you are using non-corrosive ammo.

Corrosive ammo requires U.S. G.I. Bore cleaner or hot soapy water to remove the corrosive salts. Dry the bore and coat with G.I oil, or equilivant. For long term storage, I use RIG gun grease in the bore and on exterior metal. Heavily oiled rifle bores of guns stored butt down in a gun rack allows the oil to migrate down over the action and soak into the wood stock- grease stays in place under the same condition.

I noticed the old black CLP cans are now on the shelf as CLP, but with a Winchester label. We used it in Govt. Service for years for all arms with no problems and I still use it today.

Adam

[GoodOlBoy]

What it boils down to is there is no one way to clean a firearm, either for use, or for storage. But danged if there ain't ALOT of "wrong" ways.

I rebuilt a old colt 1911A1 (against my better judgement) for a fella into a VERY tight VERY accurate shooter. Guy calls me the next day after delivery and says "I don't know what you did to my gun but it won't do anything now and the expert at the pawn shop says he could only give me $20 in trade for it because it was messed up bad!" He was mad, I was mad, so I had him bring it over. It took a mallet and about 15 minutes to break the gun down, and then it covered my workbench in wd40.... His way of "oiling" the old colt was to take a gallon can of wd40 he had and just drop the gun in it when he wasn't using it and let it set. Well needless to say next time a TIGHT gun gets shot it locks up from all the oil. I proved it to him. I broke it down, I cleaned it up. Put a little 3-in-1 on it and shot 100 rounds of my own ammo into a target in a VERY nice group. Then he shot 100 rounds of his own ammo into the same target in a VERY nice group. The next day he calls me cussing because it is locked up again. I asked him about the wd40 and he told me I didn't know what the heck I was talking about he had been doing it that way since before I was born. He brought it back over, half an hour later with the mallet the gun is broken down, I proved it AGAIN! The next day same phonecall. My answer that time was "That gun is obviously too tight for you with a custom fitted barrel and parts. Bring it back I will stick the old parts back in and buy the new parts BACK from you." He tells me to "go to heck" only not that nice. Sells it to a buddy of his, and mine, a week later for $50 who brings it to me. I clean it up show him how to oil a tight 1911A1 and he uses it in IPSC matches. To this day the original owner tells everybody he meets that I messed up his gun. Invariably they go to the guy who bought it who tells them I am the greatest thing since sliced white bread. As a side note he paid big bucks for a gold match grade kimber. He has sent it back to the company at least a dozen times because it "locks up" I just grin and shake my head every time my buddy that bought the old colt tells me about it.

GoodOlBoy

[tooldummy]

Great story GOB. Some people just can't listen or learn I don't guess. I think it would really upset me if he was telling people I "messed up" his gun though. But I reckon if they know him too well they probably know what kind of guy he is.

I use a lot of different things to clean my guns. I've used Hoppes and Sweets and other stuff over the years. I am pretty fond of plain old carburator cleaner anymore. I'm carefull not to get it on the steel or wood though. After scrubbing the bore good, I like to wet a patch with Stihl 50:1 2-cycle gas mix and run it down the bore. I had a fella I respected tell me that is what he used and I started doing it too. Right or wrong, that's what I do. A Stihl chainsaw can run upwards of 14,000 rpm and generate a lot of heat. His thinking was that should be good enough to protect a rifle bore and I'm inclined to agree.

I have used several diffent oils to lubricate my guns. I've used Remington's aeresol oil, 3 in 1 oil, Marvel's Mistery Oil (got a case of the little cans at a flea market a few years back that I really like) and others. A buddy was showing me his collection of nice guns a few years back and asked what I used. I told him and asked what he used, expecting to hear about some sort of exotic hard to get imported specialty lube. He told me he just used non-detergent Dollar General 20 or 30 weight motor oil. That's what I've been using the last several years and I am very pleased with it. I picked up a little oil can at a farm supply store to store it in and to dispense it with and it works great. I do use something thinner on the firiing pin though, depending on the weather. This time of year in Illinois heat I put a drop of light oil In the winter when I'm coyote hunting, a drop or two of WD-40.

I like to use a soft oily cloth to wipe the gun down with. When the wife and daughters go rummage saling I send a couple of bucks and tell them to buy me either some flanner shirts or baby gowns. For a few dollars I have enough patches/rags to last a year or more. My wife cuts the buttons and snaps off to save as repair parts and I get the cloth.

[GoodOlBoy]

great examples tooldummy. I also use old "wifebeaters" cut down for my patches. Works like a charm.

GoodOlBoy

[Jack]

Garage sale flannel sheets will give you a buttload of patches, too.

[Mr. 16 gauge]

I also use old "wifebeaters" cut down for my patches. Works like a charm.


Garage sale flannel sheets will give you a buttload of patches, too.

I use my worn out skivvies when they get too many holes in 'em!:D

I also use left over surgical gauze for cleaning shotgun barrels....the loose weave helps pick up large burnt powder particulates, goo from the plastic wads, ect. I you can get a chance to, try some............

[skeet]

Heck Mr 16..I even tried that gauze for BP ball patches. Worked ok if & when got the right thickness...but just ok. They do very well for cleaning though