Gentlemen, this seems to be an old string that has been brought forward for some reason! Possibly because the question has not been answered! For what ever reason, as I read the whole string, I found a lot of missinformation, some ideas that have been tried many times over the years, and that simply do not work, and most seemed to have missed the "QUESTION" all together!
First off, there is a large difference between a STOPPING RIFLE, and DANGEROUS GAME HUNTING RIFLE! I have some personal experience in both types of rifles, because that is my thing, hunting Dangerous game, where ever it roams.
The place where a STOPPER, and a DGR (dangerous game rifle) are the same, is both must have rock solid
RELIABILITY! Beyond that, They are two distinctly different rifles. Both can be used for the other's purpose, but in the case of the HUNTING DGR, used as a stopper can be risky, while the stopper can be used to hunt DG without fault, a DGR is not always the best choice for stopping!
A stopping rifle must be set up a particular way, be it bolt or double! No other type of rifle is suited to the stopping use.
A Bolt action stopper, first, must be CRF, and secondly, must be chambered for a REAL stopping cartridge! After those two things are decided, next must be the fitting of the rifle to the shooter, so instinctive shooting is easy, without the use of the sights. If a scope is mounted on this rifle, it must be in Quick Detach rings, and bases, of high quality, that absolutely returns to zero every time the scope is removed, and replaced. Finally, it must be equipt with quality irons sights, as well. Then the action must be made absolutely reliable in it's feeding, every time, from the first shot, to the last, and from a single round placed dirrectly in the chamber, or from a full, or partially loaded magazine. The cartridge must be from a large medium, like the 375 H&H, which is bottom as a stopper, to the largest round the owner can shoot properly. IMO, the cartridges above .500 cal are not well suited to stoppers! The recovery time from the recoil of one shot to the next is too slow with anything larger, when time matter most!
A double rifle should be a side by side, and fitted to the shooter! with Iron sights that are visable in most types of lighting conditions, and should be weighted, and ballanced for fast handleing, and fitted to the shooter so a close shot can be made with thought of sights at all! Nothing used on dangerous game, in close encounters is faster, or more reliable than a well made S/S double rifle! The rifle must be light enough so it can be carried all day, in heat, and still have the shooter be able to shoot it well when tired, and sweaty. With this neccessity being equally applied to both the Bolt, and Double stopper!
Between the two types (BOLT & DOUBLE) the double rifle is far more reliable than any bolt rifle, the double being two, completely indipendant, rifles on the same stock. If you have a missfire on one barrel, it has no effect on the other barrel at all, unless you have commited the unforgivable sin, of haveing a single trigger on a double rifle. If a spring breaks, or a fireing pin breaks, on one side, you are still left with a single shot rifle. If any of these things happen to a bolt rifle, you are left with a 10 pound club!
As I said stopping rifles can be used for general hunting, and the double rifle is not hendered by a little longer range as most are prone to think. The sights on double rifles with flip-ups that go up to 3 or 400 yards, were not put there for decoration. If a double rifle is loaded with ammo that is properly worked up to shoot to regulation, then the rifle will shoot to all the sights maounted on it by the maker. That is the problem with most people who think double rifles are simply 15 yd rifles, they simply do not know anything about double rifles other than what they've read written by gun rag writers who know even less about them.
I have owned, and still own several double rifles, and bolt stoppers, as well as DGR hunting rifle of both types. I have take dangerous game at close quarters, with both types, and both actions. My choice every time, for a"GO INTO THE WEEDS" rifle will be a S/S double rifle. The reason you see so many Client hunters with bolt action rifles, is, because they are found in every K-Mart in the world, and though it isn't a good idea, you can buy a CHEAP bolt rifle chambered for a big chambering. Where, the price on an even intry level S/S double rifle will cost as much as your brand new Bass Boat, with all the bells & whistles!
I see, in this string, those reccomending a shotgun for stopping a lion, and one guy even states he might take on Cape buffalo with his SavRemChester slug, or buck shotgun! I can't think of a better recipe for a mauling! Lion have been known to stop close range 500 gr 458 Win Mag bullets in the their shoulder muscles in a adrinelin pumped-up charge! I would much rather have a medium bor rifle any day, that any shotgun. Even Leopard PHs rarely use a shotgun for follow-up on wounded leopard, and most of those mauled, or killed in the follow-up were useing shotguns.
That is a 120 lb thin skinned cat, and it would be suicide to follow a Buffalo into the thorn with a scattergun!
After reading this string, I'm sure there will be those who disagree with my take on this subject! That is fine, and this post is simply to place the string in an informed base for discussion. I'll be willing to cuss & discuss anything I've posted, and to offer further information as it comes to be asked, or cussed!
