Mr. 16 gauge, I’m the same way…I don’t use modern plastic shot cups…if I can’t try to do it like the settlers did then what’s the point I’m trying to accomplish...if I take pride in taking game like squirrels, doves, crows with a Flintlock smoothbore its because I did it like the settlers could have…using techniques that they basically had available to them...to me personally, if I use modern plastic wads to gain an advantage then I’m really not doing it the same way they did.
In pattern testing GM Flint smoothbores in .54/.28ga and .62cal/.20ga…some things I’ve found that improve cylinder bore patterns for me, both in density and distance are:
1) The ratio of more shot than powder like you mentioned…I don’t waste a minute even thinking about comparing modern shotgun gauges and loads to a BP smoothbore Flintlock.
I use big strong thick steel barrels from GM and they are nothing more than that to me…big strong thick steel barrels that I shoot shot out of…if they happen to have a diameter that somebody could say is the same size as a modern .20ga, so be it, but I do not proceed with any thoughts of a modern .20ga in mind…they are two completely different worlds IMO;
2) Minimal amount of wadding over powder to minimize their effects on the shot column at muzzle exit…the larger amount of wadding material that there is, the momentary high pressure muzzle blast at exit can drive them forward into the shot column;
I don’t use any OP cards…just various cushion wad material like prelubed wads from Circle Fly or Oxyoke;
3) A larger size shot than normal…ie: #5s in stead of #6s…if I was going to use #6’s for squirrels, I use #5’s…the larger heavier pellets bore straight ahead a little further before beginning to veer off from deformation or wind;
4) At a minimum, I use the hardest magnum shot available, deforms less than chilled shot;
And even better is Nickel plated shot for long range small targets like a turkey head…costs a few bucks more but for the type hunting I use it for, I don’t take all that many shots.
The old Winchester ‘Lubaloy’ copper plated shot is also outstanding but they stopped making it long ago and very hard to find any old bags still around…the modern made copper plated shot by Lawrence is absolute junk…doesn’t even do as well as magnum lead shot so don’t waste your money. The Winchester ‘Lubaloy’ was actual copper plating over hard lead…the Lawrence brand is just a copper wash over cheap soft lead.
5) Skeet targets are only 21 yards…both chilled and magnum #9’s in a cylinder bore are fine for that.
6) For long range patterns on small targets like a turkey head, I had a barrel Jug Choked ‘Full’ which was available back in the day, and it is definitely the way to go if you want a long range turkey barrel.
Squirrel photo = a couple squirrels, each out of the same tree at 30 yards
GM 15/16” x 33” .54cal/.28ga cylinder smoothbore
70grns Goex 3F
Two 1/8” Oxyoke prelubed wool wads
1+1/4oz #5 chilled lead
Circle Fly OS card
Turkey photos = both dropped stone dead…Jake @ 40yds, Tom @ 30yds
.62cal/.20ga 1” x 33” Jug Choked ‘Full’
(using Bob Aspens turkey load at his website)
http://members.aye.net/~bspen/SmoothboreLoads.html
80grns Goex 3F
Circle Fly cushion wad
1+5/8oz #6 magnum shot (or Nickel plated)
Circle Fly OS card
Squirrels @ 30yds
JAKE @ 40yds
Tom @ 30yds
