![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
trap makers
looking to get some conibear traps and was wondering if anyone could recomend some good brands and manufacturers. experiences good or bad. who to stay away from, etc.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Back in the day when I trapped most of my conibear traps were victor. I never had any problems with them. I remember buying some used that had weak springs and I was able to get parts to rebuild them but do not remember where. I also had a few that worked on the same principal but were round and when sprung they coiled in to the center. They were deadly but hard to set and more trouble than they were worth trying to get them set and positioned in the winter, in water, with cold hands. I was just a kid and carried a rope to get the springs set.
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Trap Makers
I've always used Victor. Never had any problem with them.
They need adjustment like any other trap. Viper1 |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Another ditto for the Victors.
I bought a dozen cheapies many years ago. Can't remember the brand name. They just didn't work as well. Heck nobody would even steal them ![]() |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
thanks everyone. what kind of adjustments to conibears need?
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Sometimes you have to straighten the triggers out a they tend to get bent pretty easy. I remember using metal coat hangers to replace triggers after they were broken off. If you are getting new traps you will probably want to boil them before using. I always boiled my traps in walnut hulls but I think there are some products on the market forboiling these days.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
If you are buying new , and I stress NEW, traps you can use the dishwasher to remove the factory oil.
I always dishwasher my new traps before hanging out to rust. conibear or not. just don't use scented dishwasher soap. buy your own cheap stuff. BTW rusty traps seem to hold the dye better. Never tried it but some I've heard paint them. Since its a long time to next years trapping season now might be the time to do that. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Oh and another tip.
You can buy a special trigger to use on the line if you break off the existing trigger.Just carry a couple with you. Wern't very expensive iirc. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
i once read dying and waxing conibears is a waste of time and can be dangerous on the bigger, #330's. is this true? the guy says he just cleans them when he gets a new one in and paints them a rust color.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
I wouldnt wax them. The main reason I boiled and died my conibears was to help keep them out of the easy view of the Johnny Sneakums as I always trapped on public land and had expierences with others trying to check my line before I would get to it or stealing my traps. Be careful with the bigger conibears, they can certainly do some damage if you get caught in one.
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
![]() ![]() Felt pretty silly. Took some figuring on how to get out of that one. ![]() ![]() |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Body Grippers
I have had good luck with Duke, Victor (Old Style) and Bridger. Not really one beter than the other now days ... just a better pricing. As far as triggers ... I use a stainless trigger made by the CDR company. A little more expensive, but to me it's well worth it.
Hope this helps.
__________________
Member: NTA, FTA, OHA, FOTPCA, NWCO Cert., Traps4Kids Sponsor Last edited by toxic111; 02-12-2006 at 11:20 AM. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
these victor traps you speak of, are they made by a company called oneida victor now?
|
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Victor
Yes, now they are made by Oneida Victor and are not the quality of the old Victor traps, but are still being sold on their name. So they are a bit more costly than another trap of equal durability.
__________________
Member: NTA, FTA, OHA, FOTPCA, NWCO Cert., Traps4Kids Sponsor |
![]() |
|
|