Buying used muzzleloaders

[Gil Martin]

My favorite gun shop gets in used muzzleloaders from time to time and sells them at very attractive prices. I managed to get a mint .50 T/C Hawken flintlock for $100.00. A pair of Lyman Great Plains Rifles cost me a about $188.00 each. I gave all of these rifles very careful inspections in the shop. Upon arriving home, they were completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and the wood treated with boiled linseed oil. Once reassembled they look like new.

I have noticed a few things about some used muzzleloaders:

The bores on some are rusted and pitted due to apparent improper cleaning methods used by prior owners. I never buy rifles with bad bores.

Jaw screws may have defaced slots from attempts to tighten them with either an ill-fitting screwdrivers or too much torque. Their is a hole in the jaw screw that will allow tightening it with a finishing nail or small allen wrench and save the screw slot.

Even in cases where the bores are properly cleaned, one often encounters surface rust on the barrel and lock areas. Seems the cleaning process was incomplete.

Touch hole bushings usually need to be replaced, if you can get them out.

Finally, sight bases may be marred by attempts to adjust windage by using improper tools.

All of these things except damaged bores can be corrected easily. All the best...
Gil

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Yep....with the advent of the inline rifle, there have been MANY used traditional style muzzleloaders on the used market. However, many of these, as Gil has pointed out, haven't been properly maintained.....Caveat Emptor!
Unfortunately, most of these traditional firearms are of the mass produced type.....not to many of the custom made flintlock long rifles in the bunch!

[MAN IN BLACK]

Well I just bought my first muzzleloader last week. A .50 cal. Bobcat (I think) for $65. It was my birthday the week before I had free money so I figured I've always wanted one let's start here. I see signs of slight rust in the barrel but the exterior of the gun is in great shape. So Gil what is the proper way of cleaning a muzzleloader. I've heard all kinds of stuff. But I'm probably gonna take it apart this weekend and clean it and check it out.

[Duffy]

Good thread. Lots to look for. I recentlyt had the chance to buy a used .50 Hawken cheap at an auction held by the local sportsmen's club I belong to. While it was very tempting, I let it go because, as you say, it didn't appear to have been properly maintained. You don't always know what problems you're going to inherit with a purchase like that. I'd rather not find out the hard way.

[Gil Martin]

MAN IN BLACK,
Blackpowder is corrosive and must be properly cleaned the same day the gun is fired. The proper cleaning method follows the U.S. Army regulations of the last few centuries. Remove the barrel from the stock (if possible) and remove the touch hole bushing (on a flintlock) or the nipple (on a percussion). Use a wet cloth or one with solvent on it to thoroughly remove all powder residue from the lock assembly. Dry the lock and wipe it down with an oil and grease cloth.

Get a small plastic bucket, cut pieces of bar soap shavings into it and dump in about a gallon of very hot water. Place the breech end of the barrel in the water, hold the barrel with a piece of cloth (like an old undershirt) and insert a snug fitting patch on a rod down the barrel. Pump the patch up and down until hot soapy water comes out the top of the barrel. Do this for a few minutes. Dump out the dirty water. Repeat this process with very hot water. The barrel will become too hot to handle and this is good. Place the barrel muzzle down is a safe area and let it air dry. Runs some dry patches down the bore followed by several oiled patches. Wipe the exterior of the barrel down with a cloth with some oil and gun grease on it and reassemble the rifle.

It takes a few minutes, but blackpowder arms cleaned in this manner will remain rust free and attractive for many years. I am confident that Adam Helmer will concur with these instructions. Hope this helps. All the best...
Gil

[MAN IN BLACK]

Thank you. That sounds simple enough. Next is learning how to load and shoot it.

[Adam Helmer]

Gil,

You did just fine on your instructions. I use hot, soapy water to clean my BP arms. Some guys use Windex, anti-freeze, alcohol, peroxide and all that sort of stuff that usually works because it is water-based. I keep it simple and begin with water.

Adam

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Some guys use Windex, anti-freeze, alcohol, peroxide and all that sort of stuff that usually works because it is water-based.

Ohmygosh!!!!!!! PEROXIDE!!!! ....that's probably one of the WORST things you can use to clean any metal object! Why? because that bubbling you see is liberated oxygen, and as we all know, oxygen (and oxidizing agents) cause RUST!!!!

I don't know where that one came from, but my advice is to avoid it like the plague as a firearms cleaner.

FWIW, I would be careful with alcohol as well....used to use it in part of our heart/lung machines years ago, until we saw the amount of corrosion it caused (on stainless steel, no less!!!) I'll stick with hot, soapy water, thank you very much!

[Adam Helmer]

Mr. 16 gauge,

Many thanks for your lucid clinical report on corrosion. Really, at my local gun club I have seen all the liquids mentioned used to clean muzzleloaders.

The Old Army Manual specified hot, soapy water (when available, otherwise use any water) to clean the US Arms needing cleaning.

Adam

[MAN IN BLACK]

Gil,

I followed yur instructions and it took about 2 hours (between me accidently taking the trigger apart, cleaning, and my screaming 3 month hold future hunter) but the all that said it looks brand new. What little signs of rust were there are gone. Thanks.

[Gil Martin]

I like it when a story has a happy ending. All the best...
Gil