need help with revolver

[happycowboy]

Ok folks, i picked up an 1858 remington for dirt cheap this weekend. Dirt cheap because the guy shot and didn't clean it right away. When he did decide to clean it, he broke off the T-part on the end of the cylinder pin. So my question is how and the world can i get the cylinder pin out without the T-part on the end to pull or even tap on with a hammer. The pin is flush with frame. I'm pretty sure the gun could be made shootable again if i could get the cylinder pin out, so i could get the cylinder itself out and give the gun a good cleaning. Hopefully i can get this gun working again. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks folks.

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Someone else might have a better suggestion, but I'm thinking that if the pin is broke off and flush with the frame, and there is no way to get a set of small vice grips or needle nose pliers to grip the pin, then you most likely will have to drill and tap it and pull it out that way.
Good luck....and keep us posted.

[Larryjk]

Happycowboy, You are probably not prepared for what you have to do. Drilling and tapping may not be necessary! Cock the hammer. Look in there and see if you can see the back end of the cyliinder pin. Maybe yes. Have a gunsmith disassenble the revolver to get the hammer out of the way. If the end of the cylinder pin is visable; take a punch and tap on it to see if it will start to move. If so you are home free. If not, put some KROIL on the pin at both ends and let it set for a couple days. Then tap it again. Most likely it will move.

[GoodOlBoy]

Larry is most likely on the right track, if the cylinder pin is broken see if you can see it from the hammer/safety side. Also bear in mind that the cylinder pin shouldn't be stuck like that, and it certainly shouldn't have just broken off that way.

How much did you pay for the revolver and what caliber is it if you don't mind me asking.

GoodOlBoy

[Adam Helmer]

happycowboy,

You do not sound too happy. I hate to be a "Monday morning quarterback" here, but when I come across such cases, I ask the seller to strip the gun, remove the bolt or whatever at point of sale. Failure to accomplish the task reduces the price big time.

I looked at a N0.4 Mk1 once long ago and could not get the bolt out to view the bore. The seller fussed with it a bit, put the rifle in his bench vise and tore a few fingernails and did not remove the bolt. I got the rifle for $15.00. The locking bolt latch was abused and for $3.50 I got a new gizmo. Oh, the bore was perfect and the rifle had matching numbers.

Adam

[happycowboy]

I got the pistol for 40 bucks. It is an 1858 remington in .36 caliber. The guy did this last year about this time and then put the gun up without cleaning it. He says he forgot about it, and was digging thru some stuff and found it. But by then it was waaaay to late. He tried to disassemble and thats when he broke off the T-end of the cylinder pin. He was using a hammer trying to get the pin to come loose. I figured for 40 bucks, what the heck. The gun doesn't seem to bad. I think it could be salvaged if i could get the cylinder pin out. Thanks for the suggestions and i will definitely let you guys know how things work out. Later folks

[Adam Helmer]

happycowboy,

The Lyman Black Powder Handbook on page 64 has a drawing and step-by-step instructions on detail stripping the M1858 revolver. Hope this helps.

Adam

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Never heard of an 1858 Remington in .36 caliber.......some pics might be cool too, if you can do that.

[Adam Helmer]

Mr. 16 gauge,

My research indicates there was a Model 1858 "Army" (.44 Caliber) and a "Navy" .36 caliber revolver.

Earlier documents disclose the Army wanted a BIGGER Caliber revolver after the Navy adopted the earlier Model Colt .36 caliber revolver.

Adam

[happycowboy]

I can't get the hammer back to even a half cock position because the cylinder will not turn when you pull back on the hammer. I knew this when i bought the gun, but was hoping that if i could get the cylinder pin out that i might be able to salvage the gun into a shooter. Even if the cylinder isn't any good, i could get another one from cabela's. But i won't know until i get the cylinder pin out first. Like i said in previous post, the guy waited way to long to try and clean it. As far as pictures go, if anybody wants to look at one, just go to cabela's website and check them out. I don't know how to post photos's. Not that good on a computer. Anyway, if anybody has any more suggestions please i need all the help i can get. Thanks folks.

[Adam Helmer]

happycowboy,


I read an article recently about a Rebel guerrilla Civil War unit. At the end of the day back at camp, the horse soldiers would dismount and "DIP" their empty, fired C&B revolvers for a few seconds into a boiling pot of soapy water and then shake the guns, let them air dry for a few minutes and then reload them.

Adam

[happycowboy]

Ok folks, i completely disassembled the remington. I found a small piece of solid steel and tapped the broken cylinder pin out, then tapped the cylinder out of the frame. This gun can definitely be salvaged. It is in dire need of a good scrubing and some gun oil. I'll give a good scrub down and cleaning. I haven't tried to get the nipples out yet. I'm gonna hit the maintenance guys up at work tomorrow for something to clean the rust and soak the frame and cylinder in. I will let you know how everything works out in a day or so. Thanks for all the advice folks.

[wrenchman]

you might want to get a bucket and let the gun soak in clean oil for a few days.

[Larryjk]

Happycowboy, I think the best penetrating oil you can get is KROIL. You don't have to let it soak in a bucket of the stuff. Just squirt it on the gun and let it set a couple days. They call it "the creeping oil". It surely is.

[happycowboy]

Hey Larryjk, i have never heard of KROIL. Where do you get it? I gave the a good scrubing this afternoon. It looks alot better, but still needs some TLC though. I'm gonna call "vitgunworks" tomorrow about a new cylinder pin. Later folks