Is break-in time really needed for factory guns

[Skinny Shooter]

Later this week or next I should be getting a new factory rifle in 308 win and started thinking about the first few times it will be shot.
So I searched on here and found some threads on barrel break-in procedures.
Maybe break-in procedures are for custom guns but I thought a hand-made barrel would already be smoothed out by the maker. Which would reduce the need for break-in in the first place.
Currently own a VS in 22-250 and a VLS in 308. Neither gun was "broken-in" using the procedures described in those threads. I just shot the guns (without letting them overheat) and cleaned them when I was done. I'd say that their accuracy was in the .5 moa dept with factory loads and a little better at times with reloads.
Some of the prescribed methods talk about the bullet smoothing out the rough spots. How can copper (even under high pressure) remove metal and/or smooth it? I can understand copper acting a a filler in between rough spots.
Another method was to use Flitz, JB paste or steel wool. I'd be concerned that too much metal is removed. What happens if the metal removal is uneven in certain spots and good in another?Maybe that's being too anal...
I used to use Shooters Choice, CR-10, Butch's and other cleaners along with metal brushes and patches. When I discovered Wipeout bore foam, only nylon bristle brushes and a patch /jag combo are used for cleaning. For the last year or so I haven't used a metal brush in my barrels and the accuracy actually got a bit better. I think that is really related to Wipeout performing a thorough cleaning of the gun.
Now if the advice is to still use a "shoot one, then clean" procedure for 10 to 20 shots, how do I do that with Wipeout? That's a waste of a lot of foam.
Some guys say they never break-in a barrel and it works for them.
So who do I listen too?
Thanks for your help
Allen