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Old 08-15-2010, 08:37 AM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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Smile Ruger No. 1

Ok Guys I need suggestions. Have acquired a Ruger No. 1 barreled action in 25-06 that I want to convert to 25 Gibbs. The action had been stored for some time and has developed some rust. Problem being I have been unable to remove quarter rib screws. I have tried CRC Freeze-Off,several other products,and heat. Still unable to remove any of the screws. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Last edited by jplonghunter; 09-03-2010 at 05:24 PM.
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Old 08-15-2010, 12:27 PM
skeet skeet is offline
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Brake fluid..or atf..the pink kind.. Soak for 3 days.. take out ..clean off ..heat a bit and it should come loose.. are the screws slotted or hex wrench kind?? If hex..drill small(very small) hole to bottom of screw flood with crc for a few days...if slotted get in vice..whack the screw with screwdriver bit in slot..pretty hard..takes two people. And again..judicious heat
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Old 08-15-2010, 02:45 PM
Larryjk Larryjk is offline
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jplonghunter, I have had to remove those ribs from time to time. Skeet gave you good advice. The original screws are hex type. I have been able to get most of them loose by putting the correct hex bit in the hole and then giving it a couple GOOD hits with a hammer. That seems to break the seal. Sometimes you have to put it in the drill press vise and drill off the head of the screw. Then lift off the rib and remove the screw that
is sticking out by clamping with a new vise grip (sharp, clean teeth) and turning it out counterclockwise. If that doesn't work, grind it off flush with the barrel surface and CAREFULLY drill out the stub. Be deliberate and good luck.
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Old 08-15-2010, 08:07 PM
skeet skeet is offline
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Hey guys..What Larry said is right..thats why I said drill a small hole through the screw. Beofre the cut off. afterward you can drill that hole out a bit more and it will come out. breaks the hold of a full size screw.. That way you don't have to be quite as careful if ya gotta drill the stub out..holes already there. BTW Never saw one of the screws that went clear to the bottom of the hole either.
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  #5  
Old 08-21-2010, 07:42 AM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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Skeet and Larry

Good advice and I thank you,however, it looks like plan "B" will have to be attempted as the (4) hex head screws won't co-operate.
Just one question for Skeet. Will the second shot from this rifle be automatic after using ATF?

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Old 08-21-2010, 09:43 AM
skeet skeet is offline
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Oh yes..it will shift into 2nd shot high gear about like(if you are old enough to remember) a GM turboglide 2 speed. Not the much cheaper and wimpy ol powerglide. Wish I could offer some other help. Never had an unloose screw LOL
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Old 08-24-2010, 06:28 PM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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Skeet and Larry

Plan "B" was the answer. Drilled heads off each screw,popped off quarter rib,center drilled
all screws,and removed each with easy-out.
Now will re-chamber to 25 Gibbs,probably finish with Duracoat,and stock with Myrtlewood.

Thanks for the help.I owe you both a brew.

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Old 08-25-2010, 11:20 AM
PJgunner PJgunner is offline
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If you plan on using that rib again, remove a some material from the rear portion of the rib to make sure that it cannot touch the receiver. As the barrel heats up and expands slightly, the rib may make contact witht he receiver and that is not good for accuracy.
Paul B.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:57 AM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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PJgunner

Thanks,I have already removed .005 from back of quarter rib to eliminate this problem.

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Old 10-08-2010, 07:36 AM
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Rapier Rapier is offline
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JP,
If you have never done an accuracy job on a #1 you might be interested in the article published on the net with regard to the subject. If you go to huntingnut.com you will find the article about free floating the #1 barrel, setting up the rib, etc. Once you study on the #1 for a minute or two, it is very obvious that the design of the hanger was for free floating the barrel.

By the by, I have a 240 Laser which is very similar to the 240 Gibbs, just a tad more capacity. I use the 280 Remington brass to make the cartridges, fireforming by setting up a false shoulder. Same process will work for the 25, but in the #1 you can not get a crush fit, like you can with a bolt gun. So, you will need to set that false shoulder exactly right or use the bullet into the lands method of headspacing for fire forming.
Best,
Ed.
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Old 10-09-2010, 08:44 AM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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Ed

Thanks for info. Have just received finish reamer and go/no-go gauges from PTG. Quality Cartridge is producing 25 Gibbs brass so I thought I would try to eliminate fire forming plus it has correct head stamp.

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Old 10-09-2010, 08:47 AM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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Ed

Thanks for info. Have just received finish reamer and go/no-go gauges from PTG. Quality Cartridge is producing 25 Gibbs brass so I thought I would try to eliminate fire forming plus it has correct head stamp.

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Old 11-01-2010, 11:44 AM
wrenchman wrenchman is offline
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How goes the project i have a little interest in it.
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2010, 06:25 PM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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wrenchman

At the moment I have stalled out on this project. I have the mytlewood blank,but no pattern to cut from. May have to wait until after deer season.

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  #15  
Old 01-16-2011, 04:10 PM
jplonghunter jplonghunter is offline
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Ruger No. 1 project back on track. PTG finish reamer did excellent job of chambering. Have received 25 Gibbs cases from Quality Cartridge for loading. Probably 117 grain bullets and 4895 powder (am open to suggestions) and I will use Bell&Carlson for pattern to cut myrtlewood stock.

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