Cylinder End Play - D.A. revolvers?

[Rev]

I have 3 double action revolvers. A Colt Python, SW 29, and a SW 586. In the M29, I just shoot medium power loads, but in the SW 586 and the Python, I shoot full power hot .357 loads.

I'm just wondering what the acceptable amount of cylinder end play is in these revolvers? Just eyeballing, with the cylinder latched, I would guess that I have only a couple of .001" of end play in the SW's right now, and no discernable movement in the Python. I figure I can put the gun in a padded vice and set up a dial indicator to get a definitive measurement. I might be able to measure end play with a feeler gauge.

Thanks for any info as to what the end play should be, how to measure it correctly, and how to adjust it.

Rev

[wrenchman]

do they all have end play ?

[Rev]

wrenchman, I just edited the question to try to make it more clear. Any opinion appreciated.

Rev

[PaulS]

With the revolver UNLOADED, the hammer pulled back and held there with your thumb, pull the trigger and slowly allow the hammer to fall completely. Keep your trigger pulled all the way back. The cylinder to barrel gap should be between .002" and .008". More than that is excessive. As long as you have the gun in that position GENTLY try to rotate the cylinder first one way then the other. If it turns and then goes back where it was, you are good. It if stays in one direction it is not too bad unless it turns a lot and stays. If it turns and stays in both direction even a little your gun needs to be tuned up.
Take a bright but small light and shine it between the barrel cylinder gap and look dow the muzzle. If the chamber and bore are centered then you are good - if not then you need a tune-up. The gun will shave lead everytime you fire. Check several chambers - remember to put each chamber into full lock-up position to check it.
Check the trigger pull in single and double action using a snap cap or something to block the hammer from falling to battery. It should be smooth - very little creep, and break like a glass rod. The hammer fall should be hard enough to set off any primer and the firing pin should protrude about .060". The rifling should have sharp shoulders and very little visible wear. There should never be pits or corrosion visible in the bore. The hammer should not slip off the sear if you move it in a rotary fashion while in single action mode.
If everything is good to go then you have a great revolver.
________
SUZUKI KATANA HISTORY

[Adam Helmer]

Rev,

At the S&W Armorers' School, they called it "End Shake" when the heavy cylinder peens over the end of the barrel of the yoke. An armorer will remove the yoke from the cylinder, insert a liner and gently peen the end of the barrel of the yoke to move the cylinder back where it belongs.

Heavy loads speed up the end shake condition.

Adam

[Rev]

How many .001" of end shake are considered acceptable? I think my D.A. revolvers are probably OK, but who knows(?), I might eventually shoot them loose.

Rev

[Adam Helmer]

Rev,

S&W has specs for the thousands. I just set my cylinders back and shoot them until they end shake, again.

Adam

[Larryjk]

Don't forget one step in all that measuring. Put empty brass in the chambers; otherwise you will think you have too much endplay. After you put the empty brass in the chambers take a feeler gauge and see which blade will go between end of barrel and front of cylinder. S&W factory specs are about 0.003. That will do just fine for shooting jacketed ammo. For shooting cast bullets, go to anywhere from 0.006 to 0.008. If you don't leave that big a gap, you may start to have cylinder drag before you complete a stage of 50 rounds. That will get your dander up in a hurry. The nicest trigger pull in the world isn't worth a hoot if you have cylinder drag from lead buildup on the face of the cylinder. Keep that stainless brush in your shooting box for instant use.

[Rev]

Originally posted by Larryjk
...... The nicest trigger pull in the world isn't worth a hoot if you have cylinder drag from lead buildup on the face of the cylinder. Keep that stainless brush in your shooting box for instant use.

Larry, do you see that lead build up on the front of the cylinder when using hard cast bullets? I can never see an actual measurable amount of lead on the cylinder face, even with full tilt magnum loads.

My Python does blow bullet lube (melted bee's wax) back into the cylinder pin axis from the front though, and that will gum up the works after 100 rounds of full magnum 160 LSWC's. There is noticeable resistance in turning the cylinder (even with the cylinder swung out) after it cools off and the wax solidifies again. I then have to remove the crane and then the cylinder to get that cleaned out. That's kind of a pain, but I've never figured any way to avoid it as long as I'm shooting those full magnum LSWC's out of the Python.

Rev

[Larryjk]

Rev, I really am sorry to say that I have not had any personal experience with the Colt Python, not having ever owned one. They are really a slick revolver.
I have never watched to see if I could see the lead building up, only feeling the cylinder starting to drag after the lead had built up, opening the cyinder and seeing the drag marks on the face of the cylinder. Then I brushed it off with a stainless brush and went back to shooting. This would occur about every 75 rounds or so using commercial cast 158 gr SWC in the Model 14 S&W. When I was doing that I would buy them either 1 or 2 thousand at a time in a bulk box. Then I switched to a 45 ACP and haven't shot much of the model 14 since then.
The full house loads of LSWC in a .357 Mag and after about 25 rounds having a barrel badly leaded. I switched to gas check cast bullets and you can push the heck out of them without much leading. I don't have much time to do things like cast bullets so I limit myself to reloading my ammunition in the time I have. I have been buying gas check bullets from Leadhead in KS. Good quality bullets and the price is fair.
I find I can shoot most of the bulk, cast bullets up to about 1050 fps without much leading in the barrel.You still get the lead buildup on the frame and cylinder. To go faster than that, get a gas check!