case trimmers?

[Mr. 16 gauge]

Looking for some input into case trimmers.....currently, I use the LEE system of case length gauge and shell holder, attached to a cutter and lock stud. This system has worked well for me, but I am considering loading a couple of calibers (.25 ACP & .30 Luger, specifically) that they don't make the case length gauge and shell holder for.
So what is everybody using? I am looking for something at is somewhat inexpensive and easy to use (being able to change between the two calibers fairly easily is a big plus)...

Thanks in advance.....

[Dan Morris]

I have used a old hand crank Forester for years...haven't wore it out yet!
Dan

[Jack]

I have a Forster trimmer, same one as Dan uses. Mine is so old, it was actually bought through Herters. Forster still makes parts for it.
Case trimming a lot of cases is a pain in the butt with most of the less expensive systems.
Lee's system is certainly cheap enough, and it works. The big drawback to the Lee set up is that it isn't adjustable- you can't decide what length to trim to, like you can with many others.
A number of trimmers now use a cordless screwdriver to power their systems, rather than by hand- much faster and easier. I suspect you could attach a power screwdriver to the Forster, but I haven't tried it. The reason I haven't tried the cordless screwdriver is because Forster has a neat power adapter for their trimmer. They sell a base that goes on a drill press. The base holds the collet that you put the case head in, and the base has a speed handle to make inserting and removing the case very easy. The trimmer pilot goes in the chuck of the drill press, and case length is set by the stop on the drill press. The system takes about 5 minutes to set up each time, but once you do, it's really fast. The only time I've ever timed how long it took to do some trimming with the drill press set up, I set up and did 300 cases in about 45-50 minutes. Of course, you must own a drill press, but, the advantage is, you'll never bog down a drill press trimming cases, which happens sometimes with the cordless screwdrivers.

[Adam Helmer]

Mr. 16 gauge,

The guys gave you good advice. I use a Pacific, Forster and Lyman hand crank, bench-mounted trimmers. The Pacific uses the same shell holder as when reloading and is a nice tool. The old Forster has a "Universal Chuck" that accepts any case and you just change the Pilot. The Lyman is also "Universal Chuck", is beefier than the Forster and more to my liking. I just change pilots to trim other calibers.

The Universal Chuck is so very handy that I would go for it in your trimmer. I never went to a power trimmer with drill presses, etc., since I can do 50 cases in less than hour and that includes the champfer and deburr process. Hope this helps.

Adam

[skeet]

Of the ones mentioned so far the Forster setup with the drill press is the quickest and easiest to use. I have a couple and once set up they are very easy. I have a bench mounted forster as well as a couple of RCBS and the Lyman. Of the bench mounts the Lyman with universal chuck is the best as Adam said. I also have the RCBS powered trimmer and can say it is great..but kinda expensive. I am going to sell mine..The best of the bunch but very expensive is the Giraud. I have one of them for doing 3 calibers..It is very expensive but have tol tell ya it is the one I use most. No chucks so it is very quick. For the low volume rifle use and 44 mag type pistol I use the Lyman..mine has had a LOT of use.

[Jack]

I have not used, or even seen, the one advertised by Redding. Going strictly by the ads for it, I'd look at the Redding trimmer, too- they make very quality stuff.

[Rapier]

I own three very different case trimmers, the Forrester, CH and the RCBS Trim Pro. Of the three, the Forrester is the least expensive and least accurate, I doubt it produces two cases in 20 that are the exact same length. The CH requires die bodies for each case, but can be used to square the base and trim to length. The fastest and still very accurate trimmer is the RCBS motorized trimmer, but it is not cheap.
Ed

[muskrat30]

I trim with the Lee hand system, the lee trimmer in a drill, & a Wilson hand crank trimmer.

Back to your question. You should not need to trim straight handgun cartridges. For that reason I wouldn't get any trimmer for the likes of the 25 acp. I'm not saying there is never a reason to trim them, but hardly ever. You can measure case length & see where your at. You also hear about case length when it comes to straight wall that need a heavy crimp. It's more consistent when all cases are the same length. Still , not usually a big deal though.

[Rapier]

Muskrat,
Not trimming straight wall handgun cartridges is a no no. Let me explain. If you are using a roll crimp, the amount of crimp is directly related to the length of the cartridge case. The amount of crimp establishes the amount of bullet pull or bullet tension from round to round. If the bullet tension within the case is not constant it will not produce accurate rounds. Accuracy in reloading is accomplished by acheiving the same results from one cartridge to another, thus all of the cases need be the same for real accuracy.

I shoot sub 1 inch groups with my 357 mag and my 357 super mag reloads at 100 yards and a 44 mag will shoot 1 inch at 100 yards. But this is not possible unless the brass is properly prepared.
Ed

[270man]

Muskrat30 is right on regarding trimming 25ACP cases. Straight wall cases for semi-autos headspace on the case mouth and loaded rounds should be taper crimped to take out the case mouth flare (bell). Several years ago, I decided to trim some once-fired 40S&W cases to the same length and found that they were under the recommended trim-to length in data books. Then I checked some new, unfired cases and found the same thing.

Ive written to several "experts" and have received different recommendations. One said to sort the cases by length and trim as necessary -- but he didn't say what to do with those that were too short. Another recommended trimming to the length of the shortest cases in the lot.

If a case is much too short, the firing pin might not strike hard enough to ignite the primer. If way too long, the slide might not fully engage. Long story short, I just forget about case lengths with all my semi-autos and have never had a problem. I have loaded for 9mm, 40S&W and 45ACP. Roll-crimping is not advisable with the semi-auto cases, and the taper crimp works fine for me.

270man

[Larryjk]

I am currently using a Forster trimmer,but, I think the Redding trimmer is the most acurate currently available. If you turn the cutter against the stationary case, the finish length may not be constand from side to side. This should only happen if the unit holding the cutter or the case become loose on the stand. This cannot happen with the Redding because the case turns against the cutter. With the neck turning device and all the pilots, cutters, etc. I have for the Forster, I cannot afford to change at this jucture.

[Jack]

270Man, if you decide to sit down and do some serious measuring of straight wall semi auto pistol cases, you're going to get an ugly surprise. You'll discover that most are shorter than the length specified.
I one measured 1,000 9mm cases, and never found one that was as long as specified. I've gotten smarter (a little) as I've gotten older, and I no longer do that kind of repetitive drudge work, but I haven't found any 45 ACP cases that were specified length, either.
In practice, I think 9's and 45's are held by the extractor, or the bullet touching the leade. They sure aren't headspacing on the case mouth.
Measure your chamber, and some cases- you'll see what I mean.
I must say, whatever the cases headspace on, they all seem to work.