i'm all confused about blades

[SShepherd]

Originally posted by razmuz
1. Go to Academy sporting goods store.
2. Buy "BUCK" 110 for $25
3. It will dress out a deer as good as any thing else.
4. The only advantage of high dollar knives is "snob appeal".
5. The Buck is easy to hold inside of deer, very important.
The knives with skinny handles are flat dangerous when
covered with blood.
6. No big deal if you lose the knife.
7. KEEP IN MIND THAT ALL THE NEW KNIFES ARE GOOD FOR IS SPACE TRAVEL.

Thats 1 opinion

[kphunter]

I love my Buck Vanguard ATS-34. Great for field dressing, skinning, and keeps a good edge.

KP

[Talon]

Hello Feathermax,

This is what my son carries. Extremely functional, it holds a wicked edge, is easy to touch up , fits the hand nicely, is easy to use inside of the animal.

Runs about a $100.00

Myself, I carry one of Clercs large hunters.

http://www.javelinaknives.com/knives_javelina.php#
Click the upper left thumbnail


FWIW

Talon

[rickjordan]

raz absolutely nailed it- the best knife I've ever seen for gutting deer and I own alot of knives. I still have my Grandfather's 110 and it still is the best knife I own

[Bret Andrysiak]

One word for the best folder in the woods is BOKER!!!!Pricey but worth it also the only one I know of with INTERCHANGABLE blades in a folder.ie guthook straight saw ect.....
Muela' out of spain makes some nice stuff too.
Later

[razmuz]

Years ago the steel in most knives was crap. Then Buck came out with the 110 folder. Folks complained that it was to hard to sharppen. It wasn't, they were just used to the crappy knives. Just like the gun industry most knife knives and calibers kept changing just to sell products. The "GLORY" of the 110 was that it worked, was cheap and could be held on to when inside a slippery carcus. Try to gut a deer with one of those Buck Roger type knives being hyped today. Most of all you don't have to worry about it getting lost. Just hop down to Academy and get another foe 25 bucks. When I see someone in deer camp with a Buck 110 I know I'm dealing with a man, a real man I say.

[longdistanceoperator]

What I want is a blade that will hold an edge, can be sharpened when needed and not rust.

What you really want but you dont know it is the knife that can rust...
but you wont let it...cause you can take care of it, what you are seeking
is a non stainless hi carbon steel blade, they attain a level of sharp that far exceeds stainless blades, they hold the edge longer, and they are simple to sharpen if done correctly. A good hi carbon hunter will clean several elk deer or bear before it needs touching up, if its made properly and heat treated properly... 99% of its abilities are in the heat treat, the steel originally used, and the correct edge angle being put on the blade to begin with. As for rust... not even a consideration nowdays with all the blade oils and stuff out there to prevent it.

[Ol` Joe]

Here`s a chart on various steels used in knife making and their composition. I believe a steel needs ~13% chromium to be concidered stainless. D-2 is right at that point, the AUS steels (4, 6, 8) are just over.

http://www.agrussell.com/Steel_Guide/a/73/

[longdistanceoperator]

Dentretic Steel's edge looks like a sharks mouth under the microscope, and cuts like it too.....

Sorry Im just no fan of STAINLESS....

HI CARBON LIKE 52100 ( THE TRULY MAGIC STEEL ) OR D2

[longdistanceoperator]

Well said razmuz