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ML stock refinishing
Ok this might need to go to the gunsmithing forum, but it does deal directly with a muzzleloader so I will put it here unless told otherwise.
I finally managed to drag my ML out of hibernation, and I have decided to refinish the stock. It's an CVA St. Louis Hawken, with the set trigger, .50 and .54 barrels. I got it as a kit in '92 after I left active duty, and it been a good rifle, roundball only though. The reason I am posting though, is that I would like some opinions...which do most people prefer, the boiled linseed oil finish or tung oil? I am quite framilier with the BLO process and finish, but i've heard alot about using tung oil instead. Does anyone here have any practical experience with using the tung oil to refinish a stock??? Any info or opinions appreciated. |
#2
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Neither of those but as one similar alternative, I've stripped and refinished several TC Hawken walknut stocks and have only used Brichwood Casey's Tru-Oil...no stain, nothing else...just several coats of Tru-Oil...beautiful finishes
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"Flintlocks.......The Real Deal" (Claims that 1:48" twists won't shoot PRBs accurately are old wives tales!!) |
#3
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gumpokc,
Rest assured that your question is absolutely proper here as this is ML business. I have a small bottle of tung oil someplace here in the house, but I never used it on a gun stock. I prefer boiled linseed oil on my wood stocks because touch up is so quick and easy. I rub in a few drops of BLO now and then on my stocks and they take on a rich, deep umber-like satin finish that appeals to me. I have tried Linspeed and Tru-oil, but keep going back to BLO. Adam
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Adam Helmer |
#4
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Thanks Roundball, and Adam.
ONe of the things that brought this up, was that i was talking with a guy a couple of weeks ago who had a _really_ beautiful stock on his CVA hawken. I asked him where he got his wood from, and he stated it was the actual stock from his kit, but he spent a alot of time prepping his. It looked like it had a finish you could stare down into. he began by sanding her down progressively to 400 grit sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool. Put a very light stain on, just enough to color the grain slightly. then he said he used 12 coats of tung oil. 3 coats, then rebuff and repeat till 12 coats, then did a very light buff, and final coat was BLO. He mentioned soemthing about how he was told the final coat of BLO hardened the finish. No idea if thats true or not, but it was one of the nicest stocks I have ever seen, even in pictures. Figured i'd come here and see what others might know or have to say. Thanks for the info Roundball, I will look into that Casey's. |
#5
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Three examples:
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"Flintlocks.......The Real Deal" (Claims that 1:48" twists won't shoot PRBs accurately are old wives tales!!) Last edited by roundball; 03-26-2007 at 08:00 PM. |
#6
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roudball
Excellent pictures. The stock looks fabulous and it looks like Tru-Oil. All the best...
Gil |
#7
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OOO nice pics there Roundball, those are all Casey's tru-oil?
I definately need to look into that. Thanks again. |
#8
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Refinishing stocks
I hate hate hate to finish stocks almost as much as I hate checkering. I've used all the finishes stated and the best by far is the Tru oil. And as it is a type of oil finish if ya get a scratch or something you can just re-do the area with a good rubdown with the tru oil...and if really bad use a bit of 3/0 steel wool.. In fact, I have a spray can for just such uses. I hit it with a light spray and then rub rub rub! I do have a little Winchester 69 that I refinished with BLO way back in 1962 and with a light rubbing of oil every year or so it looks just fine. A full finish with BLO and Linspeed is a real job in my opinion. But as I said. I hate to refinish stocks. Oh and the BLO finish really does darken over the passage of time.
One of the prettiest finishes you could put on a stock was the French finish. French finish was done by using a little BLO and shellac and rub rub rub. After about 10 coats...oooolala! Almost as pretty as Brigette Bardot...Remember her?
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skeet@huntchat.com Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote!" Benjamin Franklin |
#9
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Quote:
I drop off a used stock at an antique furniture place that has a chemical stripping booth...pay them $20 to professionally chemically strip the stock, pick it up the next week...it's clean to the bare wood, no sanding done to change stock dimensions, etc. Get home, take 10 minutes to wipe on the first coat of Tru-Oil, and hang it up in the warm house for a few days to get bone dry. The next weekend I lightly slide "0000" steel wool over it, and wipe on the next coat...repeat that cycle 6-7 times and it's good enough for me. What I've also found is that very often underneath the automated spray-on TC factory finish are some very pretty pieces of walnut with good grain & figure...something about the Tru-Oil takes to the different types of grain and figure and just makes them 'pop' into view. IMO, Tru-Oil is one of life's little success stories....inexpensive, easy to get, easy to use, works as advertised, etc, etc...haven't found a down-side yet.
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"Flintlocks.......The Real Deal" (Claims that 1:48" twists won't shoot PRBs accurately are old wives tales!!) |
#10
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roundball,
Very nice pictures. I hesitate to say that the stocks on my muzzleloaders look as good with BLO. Maybe it is the long northern PA Winters and lots of rubbing by the woodstove. I put BLO on many other stocks and like the finish. Thanks for the pictures. Adam
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Adam Helmer |
#11
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Adam, please be sure you understand...I simply responded to a question about what we used for finishes...wasn't making any
point that Tru-Oil was any better or worse than anything else...
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"Flintlocks.......The Real Deal" (Claims that 1:48" twists won't shoot PRBs accurately are old wives tales!!) |
#12
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Roundball,
I am sure Adam understands fine We've had many discussions, some in agreement, some in headbutting, groundpawing disagreement It all works out in the wash just fine though ! I've seen really nice stocks with BLO, and tung before, and now tru-oil with the pics you've shown, i'll have some decide'en to do |
#13
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roundball,
I should have said, there are lots of nice finishes and a lot depends on the piece of wood and the time spent applying same. gumpokc translated my thoughts better than I posted. Your stocks show your careful craftsmanship. Be well. Adam
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Adam Helmer |
#14
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You know Adam, I think you mentioned the thing that probably makes the most difference.
Stock prep and attention to detail. No matter which method or materials is used, you can't get more out of it than you put into it. |
#15
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gunpokc
What finish did you decide to use and how did it turn out. I have used only tung-oil( 7 coats hand rubbed) for years with excellent results. jplonghunter |
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