Automotive Acrylic Lacquer as a top coat?

[petey]

Anyone ever use Automotive Acrylic Lacquer (spray) as a top coat when finishing a Laminated stock?

So I'm finishing a new benchrest stock. Been sanding for days! Now I've been applying Tru-Oil and am on my 5th coat and she's starting to shine (about 3 days into applying coats and at least as many prep'n the stock. I've been using 400 or steel wool in between coats (once dry). My plan was to give it another 8-10 more coats of Tru-Oil.. or.... Since I only have enough for one more thin coat should I

1. buy another bottle of Tru-Oil and continue pace
2. use the half gallon of Boiled Linseed Oil that I have on the shelf
3. Stop here and start applying thin coats of Acrylic Lacquer?

Concerns are, will it stick on top of a tru-oil coat. Not too concerned about the elements, as this isn't a carry gun for hunting..This is a sit under the roof and shoot off the bench gun.

So many "opinions" out there about Acrylic Lacquer vs Polyurathane vs Linseed Oil vs Tung Oil vs Tru-oil.

So far it looks good and will only look better, but I want to wax this sucker up, make it shine and track smoothly on the bench. The thicker the top coat the better.

Anyone have any experience or opinions on where I go next? So far the only stocks I've ever finished have been with BLO (Boiled Linseed oil)

Will post pics of the project soon

[petey]

Well I decided to buy a can of try-oil aerosol and now I'm up to 10 coats. I have to say the spray is much easier to distribute, fill in the cracks and finish than the rub on stuff. It was pretty hard to get an even coat each time rubbing it in. I was sanding after each application dried. With the spray I could apply, wait 15 mins until tacky, and apply again, rubbing in any overspray. Will post pics from start to finish.

[skeet]

I've used the spray on and found it works really well. BLO is ok but it is best to thin thin thin..or it will build up and be sticky.. And..I don't know if the acrylic will stick on after oil. Probably not as well as we would want. I happen to have a jar of Pilkington sitting on the bench here..it works well filling but finishes dull

[bulletpusher]

Petey,

I've never tried to put a paint over oil on a wood stock. I think I would pass on the paint and just wax until it shined and was slippery enuff to slide in on the bags like it was greased.

I think clear acrylic on the wood would work but not sure about over the oil finish. Still think I would just wax it.

I have used krylon mat black paint on the metal that would normally be blued. It gives a very even mat finish that is heat resistant and weather resistant looks really good and is a clean finish. The beauty of doing the action and barrel this way is that touch up is just a shaken can and spray away.

I've done rifles this way and its worked every time. One bolt action Rem. 700 and two AR's of a couple of friends.

Bulletpusher

[Rapier]

To remove a paint or oil finish from a stock you can use Lacquer thinner or Acetone. The carrier in lacquer is lacquer thinner. So, lacquer thinner will "burn" (start to dissolve) the oil finish if sprayed onto it. It will do the same to enamel. You would need to remove the oil finish, lacquer prime the wood and then spray it with lacquer. You might also need to apply a coat of fiberglass - resin, like Bondo, to fill the wood first, before the primer. Any surface to be lacquer finished needs to be absolutely smooth or it will show every ding, dent or flaw.

I have never used water based lacquers so they may and probably would act differently.

Around here we started carrying our match gun stocks to body shops to be sprayed then they refused to take them unless we prepped them first. It is a PIA by the way. It did not take long for us to go to clear oil without any gloss, so any touch up could be done easily. If you want to see stupid, just put a $300-400 paint job on a stock, stupid jumps out of the woodwork onto the stock.
Ed